Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Yup, wheel is here. I'll take a pic today and post later. I'm waiting on a TD06H housing from Darin but I think he's been busy. No worries though, motor is not close to going together yet as I finish my Jeep project. Interesting dialog on turbos though.:)
 

Darin

New member
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Don, I got called out to work, been in the stocks for a while now, even on my damn birthday!

I'll get it shipped the second I can.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Don, I got called out to work, been in the stocks for a while now, even on my damn birthday!

I'll get it shipped the second I can.

As long as you're on it I'm happy, no worries.

Happy birthday also!!!:tup:
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Here's the pics of the turbine wheel. You can see at the hub its been balanced. Just don't know how well its been balanced.

P6240366.JPG


P6240367.JPG


P6240368.JPG
 

It's just a six

Super Member
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Thanks for the pics.:tup:

I always have been wanting to use one of these or any 11 bladed drop in turbine wheel. Just haven't pulled the trigger yet, that & too many projects & not enough time or $$.

At least now we can get some feedback on these turbine wheels from you Don.

Good luck on the build & how much more work do you need to do to get it running again?
 

turbo7521

New member
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Thanks for the pics.:tup:

I always have been wanting to use one of these or any 11 bladed drop in turbine wheel. Just haven't pulled the trigger yet, that & too many projects & not enough time or $$.

At least now we can get some feedback on these turbine wheels from you Don.

Good luck on the build & how much more work do you need to do to get it running again?

Weld wastegate flap shut and use a external wastegate and you can keep stock down pipe! I did faster spool too if using bigger turbo
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Block is at the machine shop waiting on a couple main caps from Pro Gram. Heads are being worked on. There was the tiniest of cracks between a couple of valves. That's repaired but he still need to install an intake seat. Turbo turbine housing is coming.but don't need that to reassemble. Injs have been cleaned. (One spray pattern was wacky and one leaked.) Hopefully everything is back next week. Timing should be good as I hope to be done with the Jeep by then. As usual the dang details are taking longer then expected. Onward ho...
 

It's just a six

Super Member
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

There was the tiniest of cracks between a couple of valves. That's repaired but he still need to install an intake seat. .

Are your valves 2.02"?

Those heads typically crack between the valves because there is not enough material between the valves.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Honest answer? I don't know. :roll: I'll attempt to remember to check :rotf: Either way, they are what they are so-to-speak. I have a new machine shop and things are going much better BTW. Just noticeably more detailed in what he does.
 

Windedv6

Ty n 10s
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Are your valves 2.02"?

Those heads typically crack between the valves because there is not enough material between the valves.

It's not that there is a lack of material. It is because when they cut into the head for the 2.02s they cut into through hardened surface area. I used the marine Vortec's as they have pressed in harden seats.

Triming some material out of the bowl area will help but do not go to far as I have seen them crack trrough under high exhaust temps. It is better to get the turbo setup correct or you will end up with added exhuast temps because of the restriction and everything will domino from there. I would get at least a 14 wheel if you don't spring for a complete different turbo.

I ran 10s with a good set of Marine Vortecs, GM shaft rockers, 412 cam, 67mm turbo, internal waste gate, in a 4,300 lb Ty.
John
 

It's just a six

Super Member
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

It's not that there is a lack of material. It is because when they cut into the head for the 2.02s they cut into through hardened surface area. I used the marine Vortec's as they have pressed in harden seats.

Triming some material out of the bowl area will help but do not go to far as I have seen them crack trrough under high exhaust temps. It is better to get the turbo setup correct or you will end up with added exhuast temps because of the restriction and everything will domino from there. I would get at least a 14 wheel if you don't spring for a complete different turbo.

I ran 10s with a good set of Marine Vortecs, GM shaft rockers, 412 cam, 67mm turbo, internal waste gate, in a 4,300 lb Ty.
John

I beg to differ.
Aftermarket heads have the valves spaced further apart,( so larger valves can be installed) & if they were spaced further apart or have more material between the valve, these type of heads generally do not crack between the intake & exhaust valves.

Early non induction hardened SBC heads had problems when the factory ran 202 160 valves because there was not enough material between the valves. Camel hump, peanut hump etc.

It was always wiser to just get the factory 1.94" 1.50" heads & then have them cut for 202's because buying factory 202 heads most often had cracks between the valves & the 1.94" heads usually did not have cracking problems

If I were to use Vortec heads, I would definitely not run 2.02" valves, I would have those valves cut down a bit to leave more material between the valves, You would not loose much CFM flow if you did this & your heads would less likely crack..:2cents:
 

Windedv6

Ty n 10s
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

I beg to differ.
Aftermarket heads have the valves spaced further apart,( so larger valves can be installed) & if they were spaced further apart or have more material between the valve, these type of heads generally do not crack between the intake & exhaust valves.

Early non induction hardened SBC heads had problems when the factory ran 202 160 valves because there was not enough material between the valves. Camel hump, peanut hump etc.

It was always wiser to just get the factory 1.94" 1.50" heads & then have them cut for 202's because buying factory 202 heads most often had cracks between the valves & the 1.94" heads usually did not have cracking problems

If I were to use Vortec heads, I would definitely not run 2.02" valves, I would have those valves cut down a bit to leave more material between the valves, You would not loose much CFM flow if you did this & your heads would less likely crack..:2cents:

I didn't say it was a good thing to run 2.02 valves. I only stated that cutting the harden seats is where the problems start. I never ran more the 2.00 valves on Vortecs and even then I only used the Marine heads with the harden seat inserts. I agree that staying with 1.94 valves will be less problems with little to no noticeable difference in proformance in a non Marine Vortec head.

I ran 28-30lbs of boost on a 67mm turbo with exhaust temps in the 1,600* range and never cracked the Marine heads with 2.00 valves.

John
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

First off, John that, to me, is an amazing amount of boost. Congrats on those runs. FWIW my plan is to keep the truck in the low 12s, maybe high 11s with the new turbo configuration, on 20#. We'll see how it goes.

Oddly the cam had what I call brenelling on every exhaust lobe and every exhaust cam follower roller. Anyway, cam will to be replaced and a decision hasn't been made there yet.
 

Windedv6

Ty n 10s
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

First off, John that, to me, is an amazing amount of boost. Congrats on those runs. FWIW my plan is to keep the truck in the low 12s, maybe high 11s with the new turbo configuration, on 20#. We'll see how it goes.

Oddly the cam had what I call brenelling on every exhaust lobe and every exhaust cam follower roller. Anyway, cam will to be replaced and a decision hasn't been made there yet.

I should clarify a couple of things regarding running high boost in my application. I run an HD Bowtie block that has Siamese cylinders which reduce deck flex and keeps the head gasket in place much better than the stock blocks. The deck is thicker also. Another big plus is that I run a victor style intake that has better (more even) distribution than the stock intake. Many Syty'ers think that just because their AFRs are correct, don't take into consideration that having only one sensor only collects the average of all cylinders. Our motors normally blow one cylinder and it's the first one to denote usually due to being lean even though the AFR data seems ok. The stock intake was fine as designed for its original application. Under higher flow it loses its ability to distribute evenly, thus some cylinders are slightly fat and a couple are usually lean to give the averages seen when data logging.

In the old days, Stokes and a few others modified the intake runners to flow more for some cylinders and less on others. Now days most people just modify the intakes to fit Vortecs and open all of them up a little. Also Stokes, McCoy and some others set (or suggested) the tune run fatter, thus giving the leaner cylinders a better chance at surviving at the expense of the others being a little fatter. This held back some potential power, but provided better reliability.

Today, with all the non-syty cars and different turbo setups there is so much tuning information out there that we pick up on, not realizing that we may be handicapped with our stock intake against the LS motors, motors running better intakes, etc. Someone else’s 11.8 AFR maybe should be 11.4 AFR for our motors.

John
 
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Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Thanks John. Interestingly, at least to me, is my motor ran "normal" plugs on the drivers side and "rich" plugs on the pas side. Each set, right & left, are identical. Have yet to figure that one. Planing on keeping a eye on that with the new motor.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

Nope. Talked to the machine shop today actually. He's waiting on a couple parts. Also I'm to finish up this damn Jeep I'm working on and it seems bent on causing last minute gremlins.

I'll post the build once it begins.
 

It's just a six

Super Member
Re: Another turbo question PICs ADDED

If you read the post there are people here that start by disagreeing w/me which is fine & I can have a
rebuttal to what they say. Not being argumentative I don't get into it w/others (as you think).

I suggested a low cost (which the original poster was looking for) potentially higher flow turbine wheel.
Someone suggested not to waste there time & what I recommended & others was not a valid option.

If you look @ posts that people get into it w/me, I never start something, just like you are w/me..

The other poster here called me out & said " listen" so I said the same back & you have a problem w/it.

I do know a thing or two about cylinder heads as my good friend has been working @ a cylinder head shop for over 20 years that I hang out at.

I am not an expert, far from it. I learn like everyone else does here.

If you do not like my posts, don't read them. If my opinions are incorrect, prove me wrong. Or state your opinion which is fine by me.

If these posts here from me are so bad as you say, I would think a moderator would tell me about it, a warning or just delete my posts.

If someone here was offended by my posts, I did not here from them, I think it's good to post opinions regardless if the opinions are different..
 
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