ATR's Aux. Intercooler kit
- Thread starter sytyfreak
- Start date
The "Fuel" pump? I am assuming you are talking about the intercooler pump, and it IS a ShurFlo, with ATR stickers on it. My Ty has this kit, and with a larger ShurFlo pump that the kit comes with (flows 3.8 SCFM, the kit comes with one that flows 2.1 SCFM) my inter-coolant temp was 65-70*F after driving it for 180 miles on a 95*F day last year. It seems efficient enough, thats for sure. You can buy the ShurFlo pumps at any RV supply store. The bigger pump I have in my truck was $115 I think.
HTH's
Andy
HTH's
Andy
I got one
I got one
I have the ATR aux kit.
The atr kit is just a hayden trans/oil cooler can't remeber which.
The pump is the shurflo. Don't know if it works it was on mine when
I bought it. I do know that my intake is always cool to the touch.
I also have the pump hotwired. One of the other SyTy peeps will
chime in I'm sure. Make sure you ditch the restrictive and heat absorbing stock metal pipes with 3/4" heater hose. If it was me I would try to put together my own kit. much cheaper.You can get the pump from campers choice for about $60, shuld be able to pick up a cooler for about $125 and theme the heater hose at about $15. That'll save ya few ducketts.. HTH..
I got one
I have the ATR aux kit.
The atr kit is just a hayden trans/oil cooler can't remeber which.
The pump is the shurflo. Don't know if it works it was on mine when
I bought it. I do know that my intake is always cool to the touch.
I also have the pump hotwired. One of the other SyTy peeps will
chime in I'm sure. Make sure you ditch the restrictive and heat absorbing stock metal pipes with 3/4" heater hose. If it was me I would try to put together my own kit. much cheaper.You can get the pump from campers choice for about $60, shuld be able to pick up a cooler for about $125 and theme the heater hose at about $15. That'll save ya few ducketts.. HTH..
I have been searching the archives and was about to ask the same question. It appears you can built/acquire the same parts for much less however getting all the parts at once is a pain.
Ron Gregroy has the Jabsco IC pump for $110 (he currently does not have any in stock but I contacted him and he is ordering them and they should be available in a couple of days). And, I best deal I found on the Hayden Trans cooler #1241, so far, is $71.00 from www.dieselpage.com but they don't have them in stock (they said once ordered, it takes about 2 weeks).
Hopefully some more experienced members can shed some light on your question....I am interested in their responses too.
Ron Gregroy has the Jabsco IC pump for $110 (he currently does not have any in stock but I contacted him and he is ordering them and they should be available in a couple of days). And, I best deal I found on the Hayden Trans cooler #1241, so far, is $71.00 from www.dieselpage.com but they don't have them in stock (they said once ordered, it takes about 2 weeks).
Hopefully some more experienced members can shed some light on your question....I am interested in their responses too.
Andy,
thanx for the info, and sorry about the "fuel pump" LOL it's just that i was thinking on these 3 things(IC pump, FP, AFPR) I think i'm going to order them all at the same time.
Chris,
So it's actually a hayiden??? Geez i thought it was a custom made one. Guess I'll buy the haiden and build a kit myself. And yes I'll do the heater hose and the hot wiring when I do the IC pump! Thanx for the info!
Kent,
Thanx for the info too! Damn, $71???? I thought they cost about $110!! I'll buy it from them thats for sure!
thanx for the info, and sorry about the "fuel pump" LOL it's just that i was thinking on these 3 things(IC pump, FP, AFPR) I think i'm going to order them all at the same time.
Chris,
So it's actually a hayiden??? Geez i thought it was a custom made one. Guess I'll buy the haiden and build a kit myself. And yes I'll do the heater hose and the hot wiring when I do the IC pump! Thanx for the info!
Kent,
Thanx for the info too! Damn, $71???? I thought they cost about $110!! I'll buy it from them thats for sure!
yep it is..
yep it is..
It sure is a hayden. yep do it with the parts mentioned and you'll save a few $$
Also on another note I have heard mixed feelings on whethter it works or not. I know plenty of the stock guys are running with just the heater hose mod and hot-wired pump and there mats are low too. And the intake is cool to the touch. Just a heads up. HTH.
yep it is..
It sure is a hayden. yep do it with the parts mentioned and you'll save a few $$
Also on another note I have heard mixed feelings on whethter it works or not. I know plenty of the stock guys are running with just the heater hose mod and hot-wired pump and there mats are low too. And the intake is cool to the touch. Just a heads up. HTH.
IC pump flow?
IC pump flow?
Correct me if i'm wrong, but if you have a pump that pumps coolant to fast throu the lower heat exchanger the cooling effect will be less compare to a less flow pump and longer time to cool in lower heat exchanger???
Any info on that would be very appriciated
IC pump flow?
Correct me if i'm wrong, but if you have a pump that pumps coolant to fast throu the lower heat exchanger the cooling effect will be less compare to a less flow pump and longer time to cool in lower heat exchanger???
Any info on that would be very appriciated
Very true.
So you generally would not want to put a higher flowing pump on the stock system. What i mean is you do not want to jump from one flowing 2 gal per min to one flowing 6. As all you will accomplish is circulating hot water, not the purpose of the ic. However when you have more to flow thru, eg. the ATR aux ic ,bigger ic, larger hoses, a higher flowing pump is needed.
I don't know if anyone has determined what size pump is too much yet. That is all dependent on the ic (stock, atr, connely, etc..), any aux ic , the route of the ic hoses, the diameter of the hoses etc.. As you can see it all gets complex pretty quick. The jabsco, shurflo works good for a stock system. I have the surflo on and have the atr upper ic, and aux and my mats stay cool. Haven't looked on datamaster but the intake is always cool to the touch. after any long drives or wot blasts.
Guys,
I ordered a Hayden from Diesel Injection, it arrived today. The total invoice was $80.07. It sure looks like the one in the ATR catalog. The measurements are (approx.) 21" x 9" X 2". There was also a mounting kit included.
Would sure like to know if this is similiar to the ATR dimensions? Anybody know for sure?
Anywho, I will try and post some pics on My Pics (on Yahoo)...please forgive me if the link doesn't work....kinda new at this stuff.
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/motokal/lst?.dir=/KentsSy
I ordered a Hayden from Diesel Injection, it arrived today. The total invoice was $80.07. It sure looks like the one in the ATR catalog. The measurements are (approx.) 21" x 9" X 2". There was also a mounting kit included.
Would sure like to know if this is similiar to the ATR dimensions? Anybody know for sure?
Anywho, I will try and post some pics on My Pics (on Yahoo)...please forgive me if the link doesn't work....kinda new at this stuff.
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/motokal/lst?.dir=/KentsSy
4C FED
Absolutum Dominium
Nope that's not the correct one.
The ATR is bigger, 24" header to header or 24" core, I can't remember which.
That mounting kit probably won't do you any good.
You need to go to the hardware store and buy some insulated clamps that fit snug around the header tubes. You'll have to make some plates for the clamps attach to, then the plates will mount to the radiator core support.
You'll also have to cut the hood latch support so that the cooler will fit behind it.
When you cut the hood support, make sure you cut it as close to the hood latch as you can. You'll see there is some extra material near the latch, start just below that. Then cut deep enough to allow some movement of the cooler so it doesn't hit/rub on the hood support.
The ATR is bigger, 24" header to header or 24" core, I can't remember which.
That mounting kit probably won't do you any good.
You need to go to the hardware store and buy some insulated clamps that fit snug around the header tubes. You'll have to make some plates for the clamps attach to, then the plates will mount to the radiator core support.
You'll also have to cut the hood latch support so that the cooler will fit behind it.
When you cut the hood support, make sure you cut it as close to the hood latch as you can. You'll see there is some extra material near the latch, start just below that. Then cut deep enough to allow some movement of the cooler so it doesn't hit/rub on the hood support.
