Sean Lauver
New member
Re: Battery relocation kit
Wow! Pictures blew up. First time doing Photobucket, so please bear with me.
Wow! Pictures blew up. First time doing Photobucket, so please bear with me.
Battery relocation kit
- Thread starter dutchty
- Start date
Sean Lauver
New member
Re: Battery relocation kit
This is a reproduction of an ATR kit and the battery is held sown by a lip on the tray. It is only on one side, so I will look into a way to strap down the other side if needed. I am also making sure there is no patents on this currently, before production. :lol:MikeRenz said:
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Norm
Donating Member
Re: Battery relocation kit
I was looking at what you have there, looks pretty good. A idea for you holding down the battery ,why not try to mock something up like what came with the ty. Use the battery tray lip to hold the battery and the plastic ( nylon) battery support that g.m used. Just a idea to go with.
I was looking at what you have there, looks pretty good. A idea for you holding down the battery ,why not try to mock something up like what came with the ty. Use the battery tray lip to hold the battery and the plastic ( nylon) battery support that g.m used. Just a idea to go with.
SY2932
Administrator
Re: Battery relocation kit
That is a reasonable approach. Unless you guys plan to cut a hole and weld a nut to the tray bottom, it's going to be a bolt, washer and nut affair for the hold down. The lack of a direct mechanical means to secure the battery has always been my biggest gripe. The positive terminal only about an inch from touching sheet metal... One nasty bounce and you risk having a fire somewhere that is going to require you to remove the jack, jack up the passenger side front of the truck, remove the wheel and then remove a cover to put it out. Address the "semi-loose" battery issue and you guys will be doing good
.
Norm said:
That is a reasonable approach. Unless you guys plan to cut a hole and weld a nut to the tray bottom, it's going to be a bolt, washer and nut affair for the hold down. The lack of a direct mechanical means to secure the battery has always been my biggest gripe. The positive terminal only about an inch from touching sheet metal... One nasty bounce and you risk having a fire somewhere that is going to require you to remove the jack, jack up the passenger side front of the truck, remove the wheel and then remove a cover to put it out. Address the "semi-loose" battery issue and you guys will be doing good
dutchty
Member
Re: Battery relocation kit
Well Sean looks great
some points to make comment about, not to break you down, but just that this kit wil be ultimate without any past issues:
Hello Everyone,
Here is the pictures of the Battery relocate kit we mocked. We will be adding some fasteners so you wont need lower nuts and bolts, just bolts. Also this is in galvanized steel and we are looking into possibly doing these in stainless steel for durability. Production is still a little ways out, the new machine is a little complicated. I will get pricing as soon as we can get them into production. I am hoping they get the plasma cutter dialed in so we can start production. If anyone has any suggestions with this application it would be appreciated. We almost have these available.
Thankyou for the interest,Sean[/QUOTE]
Well Sean looks great
some points to make comment about, not to break you down, but just that this kit wil be ultimate without any past issues:
- does the swaybar has enough room to move to the most upper position because now it looks like its hitting the sheet metal.
- battery tray is for a stock battery?
- batery ty down as Norm says, take the factory support and weld a bold trough the tray
- As asked before 18" wheels should fit with this kit (is the black spot on the sheet metal of the battery cover from your Tyres when you made a turn??
- your question about stainless or not? I think just sheet metal will do. but if you think it must be STAINLESS than just the battery tray is good enough, The cover just in sheet metal as I'm thinking.
- Mikes comment about fire in the closed fender can be solved. As i'm a speedboat owner I 've a Fire extinguisher hole with a rubber cap in front of my engine compartment. This can also be done in the cover of BATKIT. So in case of a fire you only have to push your fire extinquisher nozle agianst the rubber cap push it inwards and blast away, PROBLEM SOLVED.
Hello Everyone,
Here is the pictures of the Battery relocate kit we mocked. We will be adding some fasteners so you wont need lower nuts and bolts, just bolts. Also this is in galvanized steel and we are looking into possibly doing these in stainless steel for durability. Production is still a little ways out, the new machine is a little complicated. I will get pricing as soon as we can get them into production. I am hoping they get the plasma cutter dialed in so we can start production. If anyone has any suggestions with this application it would be appreciated. We almost have these available.
Thankyou for the interest,Sean[/QUOTE]
Foot Performance
Donating Member
Re: Battery relocation kit
I would like a stainless
Are you going to make it a kit with cable or is that optional??? I like top post with a more cast type terminal (not lead). I think top post make a better connection.
but i am in for sure
I would like a stainless
Are you going to make it a kit with cable or is that optional??? I like top post with a more cast type terminal (not lead). I think top post make a better connection.
but i am in for sure
SY2932
Administrator
Re: Battery relocation kit
That is a worthwhile solution, we have a hardline connected to a remote fire extinguisher going directly into the oven at work on our thermoformer. That is for if we lose power and there is a sheet of material in the oven when it happens...
However, I still believe in the "ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" school of thought. I would like to see the battery secured in a manner that a fire due to a short wouldn't be possible in the first place. You must keep in mind with an electrical fire, the arc welding WILL CONTINUE even if you put of the smoke and fire. Only removing the source (battery) will eliminate the problem.
My bud had an electrical fire with his ATR setup before I knew him and the battery kept zapping the sheet metal until he got it out of the truck. It burned all the insulation off his ground wire before he got the battery out. That made me think about what I would do if that happened to me. First, I would let whatever was going to catch on fire burn. The reason is, if it is going to catch on fire, it is going to KEEP catching on fire until I get the battery out of there. I have a large fire extinguisher in my truck but it probably wouldn't be big enough to keep putting out the same fire over and over until I got the truck jacked up, passenger front tire removed and cover off to get access to the battery. This is of course all moot if the battery outright explodes inside the fenderwell showering everything with acid... That is why this set up NEEDS a method to secure the battery IMHO
.
dutchty said:
That is a worthwhile solution, we have a hardline connected to a remote fire extinguisher going directly into the oven at work on our thermoformer. That is for if we lose power and there is a sheet of material in the oven when it happens...
However, I still believe in the "ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" school of thought. I would like to see the battery secured in a manner that a fire due to a short wouldn't be possible in the first place. You must keep in mind with an electrical fire, the arc welding WILL CONTINUE even if you put of the smoke and fire. Only removing the source (battery) will eliminate the problem.
My bud had an electrical fire with his ATR setup before I knew him and the battery kept zapping the sheet metal until he got it out of the truck. It burned all the insulation off his ground wire before he got the battery out. That made me think about what I would do if that happened to me. First, I would let whatever was going to catch on fire burn. The reason is, if it is going to catch on fire, it is going to KEEP catching on fire until I get the battery out of there. I have a large fire extinguisher in my truck but it probably wouldn't be big enough to keep putting out the same fire over and over until I got the truck jacked up, passenger front tire removed and cover off to get access to the battery. This is of course all moot if the battery outright explodes inside the fenderwell showering everything with acid... That is why this set up NEEDS a method to secure the battery IMHO
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JuStBlAzIN
Active member
Re: Battery relocation kit
any new word on this kit? I am ready to buy one.
any new word on this kit? I am ready to buy one.
Sean Lauver
New member
Re: Battery relocation kit
[/QUOTE]
dutchty said:Well Sean looks great
some points to make comment about, not to break you down, but just that this kit wil be ultimate without any past issues:
Keep up the good work and let me know how everything revolves
- does the swaybar has enough room to move to the most upper position because now it looks like its hitting the sheet metal.
- battery tray is for a stock battery?
- batery ty down as Norm says, take the factory support and weld a bold trough the tray
- As asked before 18" wheels should fit with this kit (is the black spot on the sheet metal of the battery cover from your Tyres when you made a turn??
- your question about stainless or not? I think just sheet metal will do. but if you think it must be STAINLESS than just the battery tray is good enough, The cover just in sheet metal as I'm thinking.
- Mikes comment about fire in the closed fender can be solved. As i'm a speedboat owner I 've a Fire extinguisher hole with a rubber cap in front of my engine compartment. This can also be done in the cover of BATKIT. So in case of a fire you only have to push your fire extinquisher nozle agianst the rubber cap push it inwards and blast away, PROBLEM SOLVED.
Hello Dutch TY,
The sway bar is hitting a little. I think because this kit was made for the stock sway bars, is why we are having clearance issues. We will make sure production leaves enough room for the new upgraded sway bars. The battery tray for sure holds the optima red battery. I will need to get the dimensions on a stock battery to confirm if it will fit. I understand that this kit needs the battery to be secure so we will find a way to inmobilize it. The tires do rub on the metal. This is on my friends truck and he said if the plate is bent a little it should not rub with stock rims. Large rims most likely will rub. I should be installing the one made for my truck this weekend or next and I have 17" Corvette rims to see the clearance. We will send the kits with the proper bend for stock rim clearance. We have found a good contact block to mount on the fender and will include this and cables. Sorry for the delay, but we are waiting for the Metal shops machine. Sounds like people like the idea of them being Stainless, so most likely this will be the way to go. I will get pricing for both options, so the end user can make the decision. I keep pestering the Metal shop about the new plasma machine. They are in the learning process of this new machine and once the bugs are ironed out we will be rocking. It should not be much longer. I will post pics of the install in my truck soon. We will cut the tray to fit the larger sway bars. Thankyou for all your interest, we should roll out with a solid product that has all the issues addressed!
Sean Lauver
Hello Everyone,
Here is the pictures of the Battery relocate kit we mocked. We will be adding some fasteners so you wont need lower nuts and bolts, just bolts. Also this is in galvanized steel and we are looking into possibly doing these in stainless steel for durability. Production is still a little ways out, the new machine is a little complicated. I will get pricing as soon as we can get them into production. I am hoping they get the plasma cutter dialed in so we can start production. If anyone has any suggestions with this application it would be appreciated. We almost have these available.
Thankyou for the interest,Sean
Sean Lauver
New member
Re: Battery relocation kit
Hello Everyone,
This weekend we worked out most of the bugs on this Battery Kit. We are putting a channel in where the sway bars run to give more clearance. Also the three lower mounting holes will have 5/16" clasps welded to the lower tray for easy install and removal. The cover for the battery will have a lip on the back side so the battery has two ways to secure it. The lower tray has the lip for the front of the battery and the cover will have the rear lip to secure the rear of the battery. The tire rub might be impossible to get around. It does not rub when you turn left but turning right it rubs a little. We will see if we can offset the cover to compensate for the extra rubbing. The stainless steel option might not work for us. Like others have said the battery will still corrode the metal stainless or not. The cost will likely be double of a regular galvanized tray. We also have the option of powder coating them. The battery kit used to cost $149.00 back in 2003 I think. We are trying to do them close to this cost but the battery connections and cable and tray it might be hard. After he does the changes and we get some more costs from other manufacturers for the cables and mounting I should be able to get a price up for everything. Painting it black or Powder Coating in black will be two different price options for sure. Maybe have a complete package some time next week. This kit is going to have alot of the past issues resolved and WILL be a better product, nothing against the intial builder of course. :tup: Once the new version is made, I will post new pictures
Thankyou, Sean
Hello Everyone,
This weekend we worked out most of the bugs on this Battery Kit. We are putting a channel in where the sway bars run to give more clearance. Also the three lower mounting holes will have 5/16" clasps welded to the lower tray for easy install and removal. The cover for the battery will have a lip on the back side so the battery has two ways to secure it. The lower tray has the lip for the front of the battery and the cover will have the rear lip to secure the rear of the battery. The tire rub might be impossible to get around. It does not rub when you turn left but turning right it rubs a little. We will see if we can offset the cover to compensate for the extra rubbing. The stainless steel option might not work for us. Like others have said the battery will still corrode the metal stainless or not. The cost will likely be double of a regular galvanized tray. We also have the option of powder coating them. The battery kit used to cost $149.00 back in 2003 I think. We are trying to do them close to this cost but the battery connections and cable and tray it might be hard. After he does the changes and we get some more costs from other manufacturers for the cables and mounting I should be able to get a price up for everything. Painting it black or Powder Coating in black will be two different price options for sure. Maybe have a complete package some time next week. This kit is going to have alot of the past issues resolved and WILL be a better product, nothing against the intial builder of course. :tup: Once the new version is made, I will post new pictures
Thankyou, Sean
Sean Lauver
New member
Re: Battery relocation kit
Hey DutchTY,
Today they were putting the new battery box together. They made 10 without checking everything so he could try and get a cost for us. We still need to put the kit on a truck with the changes. He channeled the kit where the Sway bar was rubbing so that would be fixed. They also put on a bat hold down on the front cover to support the battery from moving. I will get the kit and pics hopefully tomorrow and find out what it will cost to knock 10 units out at time. I am sad that the plasma cutter has slowed this down but I should have 10 kits ready real soon. I will be posting pictures this week sometime as long as all the changes satisfy us. We will trade + purchase real soon. I really like that lower intercooler you have going. It is unreal how long a little project can take, the metal man is also a perfectionist, not a bad thing! For all that want Stainless kits, there will be pricing for those, but only will be made when bought. We won't have these just sitting on the shelf, hard to build and will probably be alot more from what the metal man is saying.
Thankyou, Sean
Hey DutchTY,
Today they were putting the new battery box together. They made 10 without checking everything so he could try and get a cost for us. We still need to put the kit on a truck with the changes. He channeled the kit where the Sway bar was rubbing so that would be fixed. They also put on a bat hold down on the front cover to support the battery from moving. I will get the kit and pics hopefully tomorrow and find out what it will cost to knock 10 units out at time. I am sad that the plasma cutter has slowed this down but I should have 10 kits ready real soon. I will be posting pictures this week sometime as long as all the changes satisfy us. We will trade + purchase real soon. I really like that lower intercooler you have going. It is unreal how long a little project can take, the metal man is also a perfectionist, not a bad thing! For all that want Stainless kits, there will be pricing for those, but only will be made when bought. We won't have these just sitting on the shelf, hard to build and will probably be alot more from what the metal man is saying.
Thankyou, Sean
Sean Lauver
New member
Re: Battery relocation kit
Hello Fellow SyTy Members,
We finally came up with the final product. Here is some pictures of the bare metal version. This kit is only going to be the two pieces and hardware. The lower battery tray and the cover. The tray has a few changes. The tray has a new channel for the larger sway bar clearance if you were to add those to your truck. The cover also has a battery holder on it, which will keep the battey in place. There is three fasteners on the lower tray so you could bolt the cover on without nuts & bolts. I will supply the bolts for the cover. We were going to supply the cables but there is too many options. I could not get any pricing breaks on cables that would make it worth while for everyone. The extra weight would send the shipping and cost through the roof. I suggest all to get there own cables from Summit or your favorite performance shop. The original kit had a junction block and cables to put it together, but we will not provide. The tray can come two ways. The standard metal tray is going to be $110 + shipping and the stainless steel tray is going to cost $180 + shipping costs without paint. If you want to paint them get a $5 can of paint and make it match your inner fender as you like. For those that want it powered coated we have a company that will do it for $50 dollars extra. The metal shops powder coating machine is not put together yet. You may get that cheaper where you are located and can be an option at the time of ordering. We have 10 kits ready to ship now and production is quick now they are set up. Sorry for the delay on this project, but as you all know this is for the Group not my main source of income. All orders can be placed seans92typhoon@gmail.com. This is the paypal account that will get these orders placed and shipped. Thankyou for the interest, I will send the ones that were orginally interested a post.
Hello Fellow SyTy Members,
We finally came up with the final product. Here is some pictures of the bare metal version. This kit is only going to be the two pieces and hardware. The lower battery tray and the cover. The tray has a few changes. The tray has a new channel for the larger sway bar clearance if you were to add those to your truck. The cover also has a battery holder on it, which will keep the battey in place. There is three fasteners on the lower tray so you could bolt the cover on without nuts & bolts. I will supply the bolts for the cover. We were going to supply the cables but there is too many options. I could not get any pricing breaks on cables that would make it worth while for everyone. The extra weight would send the shipping and cost through the roof. I suggest all to get there own cables from Summit or your favorite performance shop. The original kit had a junction block and cables to put it together, but we will not provide. The tray can come two ways. The standard metal tray is going to be $110 + shipping and the stainless steel tray is going to cost $180 + shipping costs without paint. If you want to paint them get a $5 can of paint and make it match your inner fender as you like. For those that want it powered coated we have a company that will do it for $50 dollars extra. The metal shops powder coating machine is not put together yet. You may get that cheaper where you are located and can be an option at the time of ordering. We have 10 kits ready to ship now and production is quick now they are set up. Sorry for the delay on this project, but as you all know this is for the Group not my main source of income. All orders can be placed seans92typhoon@gmail.com. This is the paypal account that will get these orders placed and shipped. Thankyou for the interest, I will send the ones that were orginally interested a post.
Sean Lauver
New member
Re: Battery relocation kit
I have been asked this and I am not sure. If you have any pictures of this install it might clear up my concern. This kit never enters the inner fender area. Please let me know if you can get some install pics. :tup:bezerk said:
