Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

canadian

sy in progress
This is a basic continuation of this thread, with some more pictures. Read the whole thread before starting. One thing I would recommend is to drop the lower I/C radiator so you can access the 13mm bolt holding the lines to the adapter that's screwed into the block. You may be able to get the lower lines out without having to cut them like I did.

Another tip is to remove the drivers side wheel and fender well to get access to the lines. This will help when it comes time to sawzall the lines if you choose to do it that way.

1) Here's the adapter you need. Make sure you clean it well if you're using a used one. Short side goes into the block.

SDC13122.jpg


2) The remote filter and lines are all held on by 13mm bolts:

SDC13123.jpg


3) I believe the lines going into the radiator are 13/16", but I can't remember for sure.

SDC13125.jpg


4) The lines going to the remote adapter run under the block and are attached with another 13mm bolt. Kinda hard to see here:

SDC13126.jpg


5) I cut an old milk jug and put it under the filter when removing it. This is one pain in the ass I won't miss while changing oil. Getting used oil all over the inner fender well.

SDC13127.jpg


6) Here's the adapter after removing the lines and the filter.

SDC13130.jpg


7) There's a 15mm bolt holding the bracket inside the fender well. Remove that bolt and remove the mounting bracket.

SDC13132.jpg


8) At this point, I recommend using a very long extension and trying to remove the 13mm bolt holding the lines to the adapter on the block. If you don't, proceed as follows. Remove the bolts holding the adapter to the block:

SDC13134.jpg


9) There isn't enough room to pull the adapter out due to the transmission, front diff, and block.

SDC13138.jpg


10) I slid the sawzall into the fender opening

SDC13139.jpg


11) Cut one of the lines and it allows everything to bend enough to pull out. I had already cut the other end of the lines as close to the block as possible

SDC13141.jpg


12) Pull out the adapter and lines

SDC13142.jpg


13) Just a little dirty

SDC13144.jpg


14) There was some gasket material left on the block side. Sorry for the crappy picture

SDC13145.jpg


15) Clean it off as best as possible

SDC13147.jpg


16) Put in the adapter. Make sure to use some blue Loctite. I torqued it to 35 lb ft.

SDC13152.jpg


17) Need to do some maneuvering to get the filter on

SDC13153.jpg


18) I used an AC Delco PF47

SDC13159.jpg


19) You can either plug the fittings in the radiator or clean them out with carb cleaner. There should be no need to fill them.
 

autoaddictions

Active member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

Might be helpfull to mention where to buy rhe adapter and part#.

Nice how too. Thanks
 

datsunguy

New member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

This is an older post but the answer belongs here:

For the bypass valve to still work properly with the remote delete, what is the best size filter and more importantly to make sure all oil gets filtered properly. Someone in a sister post mentions a 2006 SIlverado with a 4.3 but no one has stated success with that.

Please advise! I am diving into this project over the weekend...
 

Throws

Active member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

This is an older post but the answer belongs here:

For the bypass valve to still work properly with the remote delete, what is the best size filter and more importantly to make sure all oil gets filtered properly. Someone in a sister post mentions a 2006 SIlverado with a 4.3 but no one has stated success with that.

Please advise! I am diving into this project over the weekend...

delco-pf47
bosch-3331
fram-ph3387a
k&n-1001
mobile1-m1-101
purolater-10111
wix-51040

-P
 

datsunguy

New member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

Thanks Fella's....I almost got everything out of the truck. All I need to do is unbolt the lines where they go into the adapter on the block to get the lines out. I do not want to cut anything as I am saving the parts to put back to factory if I want to. I have to make myself a 13mm wrench with a special bend to get to the bolt out. Good times!
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

You CAN remove the lines to the block adapter, I've done it. Cutting is gonna be the quickest I imagine. I think Dorman makes a replacement. FWIW

Nice writeup. Like they say a pic is worth a thousand words. Maybe only a hundred in this case...:rotf:
 

syclone809

Member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

You CAN remove the lines to the block adapter, I've done it.


So have I, use a really long extension or a couple of them combined, and come at it from the front behind the CAC, under the power steering pump. The hardest part is trying to slide the hose out because of the end fitting, easier to cut. Prybars can help.
 

datsunguy

New member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

Job is complete and I have no leaks again!

Wix Filter - 4.25"
Red Line Fully Synthetic 15w40 deisel oil
- 60 psi at speed
- <40 at idle

That oil is an excellent choice btw. $10 a jug at CarQuest.
 

atkonkler

Is this your bush?
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

Just did the oil filter housing delete. God damn was that a great idea! F those stupid lines. If you have a hoist to do this it takes about an hour I'd say. Thanks for the info I need you give you a high five and a beer if we meet. Best thing I've done lately and sure as hell beats cleaning the fender after an oil change. Everyone needs to do this if it hasn't been done.
 

Logan

Member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

Since the front clip is off and a new engine is going in I did this. I am wondering how much of a PITA it will be to change the filter come oil day.
 

Black Knight

I Glow Therefore I am
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

Since the front clip is off and a new engine is going in I did this. I am wondering how much of a PITA it will be to change the filter come oil day.

It's not that bad, I've done this conversion a couple times and it's worth it.
 

aasltmike

Active member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

Did this conversion on my Ty awhile back and just last week, did the first oil change since. The biggest PITA for me was maneuvering the old filter out and the new filter in around the front propshaft without dribbling oil all over the place. I had mine on jackstands doing it in my garage, so tight quarters didn't help either. I'm sure it would be a lot easier on a lift, though. :tup:
 

atkonkler

Is this your bush?
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

Not really if you gots a hoist! No more messy oil chAngeo.Best thing I've done with that part of the truck.
 

choffert1

New member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

i was in the middle of converting and found a allen head plug where the oil bypass valve should be, or does it matter if it is in there? should it be removed first? becasue if iam mistaken isn't there a bypass in the oil filter. using a gm pf47 oil filter. i need some help please.
DSCN1744_zps6c9c368d.jpg
 

nello

Active member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

What are the benefits of removing the remote filter? Unless I was fixing a leak, seems like less cooling and a way bigger hassle for oil changes...no?
 

choffert1

New member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

i was in the middle of converting and found a allen head plug where the oil bypass valve should be, or does it matter if it is in there? should it be removed first? becasue if iam mistaken isn't there a bypass in the oil filter. using a gm pf47 oil filter. i need some help please.
DSCN1744_zps6c9c368d.jpg

any one?
 

blacktyaffair

Donating Member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To


Your project just got a little more interesting. I don't think you will be able to install a block bypass now that the hole is tapped. It looks like the hole is larger than stock now and I don't think it will hold a bypass valve now.

This was common practice amongst some SBC builders, Lingenfelter for one (if it's on the internet, it must be true). It is recommended to allow the engine to fully warm up before winding it up. Keep the RPM's down 'til you warm her up and you should be okay. :2cents:
 

choffert1

New member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter - How To

Your project just got a little more interesting. I don't think you will be able to install a block bypass now that the hole is tapped. It looks like the hole is larger than stock now and I don't think it will hold a bypass valve now.

This was common practice amongst some SBC builders, Lingenfelter for one (if it's on the internet, it must be true). It is recommended to allow the engine to fully warm up before winding it up. Keep the RPM's down 'til you warm her up and you should be okay. :2cents:

the motor was built by Nolan at Moretto, so it is possible that this is what they do for a performance motor. what i have been reading is that now a 100% of the oil will go through the filter and do not use a fram filter, and the same thing you posted about letting it warm up which i always do. i will do some more reading and contact Moretto for more info, so may just install new gaskets and lines because is worked flawlessly before, just wanted a cleaner engine bay. thanks for your input
 
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