I'll give you props on wanting to make the water to air work but I can tell you that all the fast trucks I know of have switched to an air to air. That being said I personally am trying to take the stock W/A as far is it will go due to being king of budget racing and for the challenge of doing it.
Couple of things to keep in mind with a water to air. Water is very dense and its thermal conduction is very slow. What I mean is it takes a long time to remove heat from water once its hot or vice versa. That being so IMO turning on the IC pump wont do you much good as you will only remove a minimal amount of heat before you go WOT and the water starts to heat up again. Also, slowing the pump down may prolong its bearing life but then again it will work harder/draw more current which will make the pump run hot possibly killing it quicker than running it all the time. IMO its makes more sense to replace a pump that runs 100% of the time every ~40k miles than to replace one that has like new bearings but has been over heated/burned up electrically every ~20k miles.
Here is some pics that may give you an idea of what it takes to get a
mostly stock syclone in the 11s with outside air temps in the mid 80s and high humidity (the nats last year).
Upper IC:
http://www.ridetillyoudieinc.com/albums/dr-jeckel-and-mr-hyde/acg.jpg
You will note that the IC has been wrapped in thermal reflective material as well as the turbo to upper IC pipe. A second layer of thermal material was installed over the first on the bottom surface of the upper IC for extra insulation from the DP/turbo (cant see it in the pic). Also a second layer was wrapped around the silicone connector for the pipe to IC. Not visible in the pic but prolly equally important (IMO) is the fact that I removed the two support braces that are attached to the IC and exhuast manifold. I also removed the last bracket that attaches to the intake and made one that is two seperate pieces seperated by a phenolic spacer to minimize heat transfer from the intake. I did all the IC covering in my living room floor with material I bought from JEGS and some good weather stripping cement to hold it on. I prolly only have ~$50 in the material/adhesive and had plenty left over for other projects.
Also note that the stock steel IC water lines were removed and replaced with 3/4" heater hose that are covered with heat reflective sheathing and ran thorugh the passenger fender well, snaked around the heater box, and finally into the back of the IC. What you cant see is the jabsco pump that is mounted in the stock location is also wrapped with heat reflective material as well as the pump end of the set up. The only thing that isnt is the end of the pump motor that ISNT attached to the pump as there are tiny holes in the motors end plate that I wanted to leave exposed so any air could get in there and cool it somewhat.
Upper IC rear:
http://www.ridetillyoudieinc.com/albums/dr-jeckel-and-mr-hyde/ach.jpg
One major thing to note here. Notice how the lines have a nice curve to them? I tried just attaching the ends of the hoses there but once they got warm from under hood heat they kinked restricting water flow. I went to Home Depot and pick up a couple of sink faucet kits that had extra long water "spouts" that were a real tight radius. I could have went with 90 deg elbows but water (like air) doesnt like abrubt changes in direction. Anyway I cut up the faucet "spouts" the right length to make the transition from the hose to the IC in a nice arc that water would have an enjoyable time traveling. Lastly you'll note that I have heat reflective wrap covering every joint/clamp/inch of hose. It may not be show worthy but it keeps the heat out in the best manner IMO.
IC relay mod:
http://www.ridetillyoudieinc.com/albums/dr-jeckel-and-mr-hyde/aci.jpg
This is what you need to do to get the pump to run all the time for the reasons discussed above. See that yellow wire that loops around and is attached to the bolt to the right of the two relays? That yellow wire needs to be grounded so the pump runs when the ignition is switched on. You could easily put a switch in the circuit to run it when you wanted very easily and its something I need to do for cool down in the pits but have never gotten around to doing it yet.
Auxillary heat exchanger:
http://www.ridetillyoudieinc.com/albums/dr-jeckel-and-mr-hyde/acj.jpg
This is just an aluminum ford truck heater core I found while scrounging in the bone yard one day. I got it for free, sand blasted it, painted the end tanks gloss black, and had a bud TIG weld a couple of brackets on it so I could attach it to the radiator core support without drilling any holes. I was able to use existing holes that GM put there for some reason.
Through grille view of the above aux IC:
http://www.ridetillyoudieinc.com/albums/dr-jeckel-and-mr-hyde/ack.jpg
Stock lower IC:
http://www.ridetillyoudieinc.com/albums/dr-jeckel-and-mr-hyde/acl.jpg
The above and next pic are of a STOCK syty lower heat exchanger. Two things to note in the above pic. One is the fact that I sand blasted it (using LOW pressure) to remove all the black paint that GM puts on it that holds in heat. Next is the scoop that is under it. This scoop is the "$10 IC mod" thats in the archives. It grabs a LOT of air at speed (note the sagging in the middle. It was flat when first installed). Unfortunately it doesnt do diddley when your in the staging lanes or stuck in traffic.
Lower IC 2:
http://www.ridetillyoudieinc.com/albums/dr-jeckel-and-mr-hyde/acm.jpg
Only one thing to really note here other than the lack of black paint.... I spent every bit of ~7hrs just straightening the fins in the lower IC to allow as much air to flow through as much surface area as possible (tough to see real good in this angle). Also, you would not believe how many bug carcasses and small rocks I dug out of DEEP inside the fins that were blocking any air flow in that particular pair of fins. I bet I removed 8oz of rocks/dead bodies.
The only other thing I know of to really help a stock system out is using some water wetter in the coolant mix, an ice chest with a heat exchange mounted in it (not really practicle for a street vehicle), and/or a fan mounted on the back of the stock lower IC.
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