My Lightweight Syclone

sytyguy

Moderated User
I've been getting a bunch of e-mails/PMs about how I lightened up my truck, and instead of writing out a bunch of replies, I figured I'd make one post. So, in response to someone who wrote me asking, "How did you make your truck that light?".......I wrote:

A 6 year labor of love.

I started out by doing the things that I knew I could lose and that weighed the most (ABS removal, AC removal, coilover conversion, spare tire removal, etc.....). Never weighed the truck after that but figured it to be maybe about 300 lbs lighter.

Then, I just kept climbing up under the truck and looking for little stuff to yank (gas tank cover, rear exhaust bracket, overload springs, etc......). Again, never weighed it after that, but knew (and could feel) it was lightening up a good bit.

Then, I did little stuff that added up to a lot of weight (shortening exhaust, removal of heater core and lines, swapping to radiator w/o coolers, snatching oil cooler lines, removing extra under-dash interior panels, etc....). All of this added up to a substantial drop. Also, everytime that I pulled the engine or tranny, I kept finding brackets & bolts that I didn't need.

Finally, one day I went and weighed the truck at some certified CAT scales near my house. Earlier that day I made the truck completely devoid of anything extra (no fire extinguisher, no laptop, etc....) Nothing but me and the truck. I never imagined he'd say 3180, but he did. I went and rechecked it a week later on another set of scales. Same result.

My truck could probably never be put back original, but it does run 11's with a very low-power build and that's really all I wanted.

So.....there's no big secret, just a lot of hard work. I would love to get the truck down around 3000 or maybe even under 3000. Still kinda toying with that idea since my Chevy II has a SyTy transplant that I'm working on. Weighed it a year ago with the SBC and a 700R4........2725lbs (full of gas and fluids), so it's a much more practical candidate for a lightweight project.


So, I hope that answers a lot of your questions. You'd be surprised at how much some of the little stuff weighs once you have it out and in your hands (like a heater core and lines full of coolant). I wish I could tell you all that I just yanked the Flux Capacitor and Mr. Fusion unit and dropped 500 lbs, but it wasn't that easy. In fact, my garage/toolbox are testament to this project (nuts, bolts, brackets, etc.....all over the place).

Hood
 

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
Michael,

your truck is an inspiration to me. Your engine bay is modern labor of love.

Not only did he yank the AC but he procured a non/AC blower motor & cover that nicely secured his IC lines...making it a very stock appearance.

Michael also mentioned previously that he's fanatical about producing one off aluminum washers for use where more than one steel washer was used previously.

I'm sure there's more to this and people will be in this post with even more questions...
 

smeagol

Active member
Cool post Mike.

I had some other suggestions for anyone nuts as Mike (some of these aren't groundbreaking, but since Mike has started a pretty definitive listing). Mike also has done everything on a good budget it looks like (things were removed, not changed out for lightweight replacements).

- dump that giant AC bracket if you yank the AC, and figure out some other situation. That bracket is big, it's in the way constantly, and it isn't very light.

- look into the Hydrabooster setup like Nolan has used. The factory brake booster is really heavy, and again, bulky and in the way (imagine changing the #5 plug if that thing wasn't there). Added benefit of really strong holding power on the line.

- aluminum rear drums - these can be found in junkyards if you are that type. They are sold on Ebay too sometimes, just not as cheap.

- aluminum driveshaft - lighter, a bit more expensive.

- Carbon fiber driveshaft - even one better - added benefit if you have a fast truck that you won't need a driveshaft loop

- factory Sy gate is ~35lbs I believe. Could make up a very lightweight version of that (using hacksaws, cut off wheel etc) using regular S10 gate. Someone WAS making CF versions of this also.

- If you remove the ABS, go to all the wheels and remove the sensors & wiring.

-aluminum water pump - Edelbrock etc.


Some of these aren't budget minded, but sometimes you are forced to replace parts anyways, so might as well do a lightweight replacement (driveshaft goes bad, or the water pump goes).
 

myclone

Donating Member
smeagol said:
Some of these aren't budget minded, but sometimes you are forced to replace parts anyways, so might as well do a lightweight replacement (driveshaft goes bad, or the water pump goes).

Agreed... When I weighed my sy that Ive done most of what has been mentioned cept for yanking the AC (AC will stay..) and it came in at ~3300 with laptop, power inverter, 1/2 tank of gas, etc..

Thumbs up to Mike for making alum washers and removing all those steel doo dads that the factory hangs on there and that should also be an inspiration for other ppl to do the same. Heck, if you didnt mind the extra time you could make all the aluminum washers you needed with a drill, jig saw/hole saw, and a little time. So, you heavy weights out there get to it!!! :)
 

sytyguy

Moderated User
Guys.....thanks for the kind comments. Ryan, you're right, I am fanatical about the appearance/practicality of my truck. The next step is to do a MAJOR facelift in the engine bay when it comes time for repaint. Don't wanna let the cat outta the bag, but let it suffice to say that the empty engine bay and clean firewall of my Chevy II is gonna be my inspiration. Lots of things will get moved and hidden. BTW, if any of you have questions concerning EXACTLY which items I removed and where the greater gains are (while still being practical), shoot away. I've got nothing to hide.

Some of you have asked me "Why?" or "What was your motivation?". Well, my ultimate goal with the truck was to hit high 11's reliably and consistently. However, after seeing (back in the day) what it took to do so, I knew that I wasn't ready to spend the money it took to bulletproof my build for that kind of fragging.

So, after acquiring my '64 Chevy II, and seeing how those guys could build a 400hp SBC and run low 12's or better just because the car was so light, I decided to put the Syclone on a diet. I originally wanted to just hit 3400lbs, but that got surpassed so easily that it just turned into an obsession. That obsession has not ceased......in fact, I still go out and find new ways to recreate certain items (brackets, lines, etc....) all in the name of weight savings. By doing this, the fit/finish of my engine bay really started to shape itself up. My current plan with my truck is to try to recreate/re-engineer things that can benefit us all (like the J-car PS setup, custom accessory brackets, etc.....). Maybe, this truck will put itself to some good use after all. :D

I'll admit.....some of the creature comforts are gone and I do miss them at times. But, I for one didn't buy a regular cab, compact pickup for comfort. The lack of A/C is frustrating in the summer, but it's a small price to pay to have the gains for such weight loss. And while it may not be everyone's cup-of-tea, I am very pleased with the way my truck has turned out.

Hood
 

sytyguy

Moderated User
BG.....my hidden agenda was to be VERY tight budgeted, hence the choice to reduce weight rather than increase power. I have actually looked into doing a few of the things you list, mainly the accessory brackets......those are in the works. :wink: Also, the booster has been buggin me for some time. I was either gonna go hydraboost or either pick up one of the mini boosters that a lot of classic car guys retofit for power setups. While the holding power may not increase with the latter, the size and weight will most certainly drop.

Other things I have entertained recently or already done are, as you mentioned:

- Aluminum water pump (done)
- CF Driveshaft (looking into, just too much of a cheapskate)
- ABS extras.....wiring, sensors, etc... (done)
- Aluminum rear drums (done)
- Custom tranny crossmember.....not that our's is overly heavy, but the design could benefit from the addition of loops incorporated into it and an overall reduction in girth (should be starting on this in the summer)

The thing that sucks is that to retain an AT, AWD, and still have a safe vehicle, there are only so many things that you can rid yourself of. That's why I went to doing little things like aluminum washers, removing brackets, etc......

I'll try to sit down and write out a list of what all I've done in the next couple of days.

Hood
 

sytyguy

Moderated User
DanenGraham said:
Well, pull your motor and put a Alum block in.

That's just it.....I'm too cheap. Yanking a part off is free......an aluminum block is not. :D

Hood
 

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
I got over $2300 in a alum block and Carbon fiber driveshaft. but thats 110lbs. 13 of that being rotating mass.

I wish I could remember exactly but I think my ty came in around 3300lbs with full fuel and no driver.
 

sytyguy

Moderated User
Here's a list of what I could remember off hand. I've gotta do some work to the truck tomorrow, so I'm sure I'll remember some stuff and update this list. Here goes:

Things removed:

- AC compressor
- AC condensor
- AC accumulator & Lines
- Evaporator Core (replaced with heater box)
- ABS Module
- ABS lines (replaced with hand bent brake lines)
- ABS extras (wiring, sensors, etc...)
- Stock air intake (crossover tube, hoses, and box)
- PCV system (replaced by custom setup)
- Stock plastic skidplate
- Stock lower CCHE (replaced with CAS unit)
- CCHE lines (replaced with rerouted heater hose)
- Front bumper cover end brackets
- Spare bolts from each fender liner (only 4 bolts per side now)
- Coolant overflow (replaced with plastic catch can)
- Aluminum water pump
- Cruise control (temporarily)
- Torque converter (replaced by TCS unit)
- Stock front suspension (replaced with PEP setup)
- Torsion bar crossmember
- Gas tank cover
- Heater core and lines
- Radiator coolers (radiator replaced with unit w/o coolers)
- Tranny cooler (relocated to rear with custom 2 wire hydraulic hoses)
- Oil cooler lines (filter adapter replaced with standard 4WD S-Series adapter)
- Spare engine brackets (AC, lift hooks, MAP/EGR bracket, etc......)
- Torque converter cover
- DP to bellhousing bracket
- Catalytic converter
- Catalytic converter heat shield
- Factory exhaust (replaced with single pipe that dumps at front of bed)
- Rear exhaust bracket
- Spare tire
- Spare tire holder and tube
- Jack and tire tool
- Jack bracket and cover
- Various interior panels
- Charcoal canister, bracket, and vac lines
- Vacuum ball, bracket, and lines
- EGR valve
- EGR solenoid & lines
- Clutch fan (replaced with electric fans)
- Stock wheels (replaced with lighter wheels)
- Stock tires (current ones are slightly lighter)
- Stock starter (replaced with CVR)
- Battery tray
- Stock side mirrors (replaced with SS ones)
- Underhood liner
- Underhood lamp
- Boost solenoid
- ECM bracket
- Stock rear drums (replaced with aluminum ones)
- Overload springs
- Stock steering shaft (replaced with Borgeson unit)
- Floor mats
- Tons of bolts, washers, and misc clips and brackets
- Dirt/mud/etc....scraped from every nook and cranny
- much more to be added when I remember all of it

To do:

- CF driveshaft
- Custom sheetmetal work
- J-car PS pump setup
- Brake booster
- Sump'd 13 gal fuel tank
- Accessory brackets
- Custom tranny crossmember


Hood
 

DanenGraham

Big in the rear
hell, i got a CF driveshaft, and i wonder why i am broke.
Factory exhaust (replaced with single pipe that dumps at front of bed)
Got that same setup. no spare, check.
Charcoal canister, bracket, and vac lines
There gone. Overload springs dont have, supose another owner took off?



What about the Vacume ball, mines gone.
And i have thought about taking the bed off one time i go to the track, thats an EZ 150-200#'s right there.
 

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
My truck weighs 3380 lbs with ac and abs still. A couple of things left out unless I overlooked them from all your posts.

One thing that is very important to properly distribute the weight of the vechicle as much as possible, even if there is a huge front weight bias.

Anyway.....

Mini starter.
Fiberglass rear springs.
Removed driving/fog lamps. Cracked lenses anyway and since I like to do the roadcourse, I know have a place to put brake cooling ducts.
A2A intercooler really dropped a bunch of weight
Firestone Firehawk SZ50 EP are comparatively lighter tires from what I remember
 

sytyguy

Moderated User
nightdiver said:
Gas tank cover ???????????????????
What about the antena

Yeah, I know it doesn't weigh much, but the gas tank cover doesn't help you pick up radio stations. :D

BTW, updated the list some more as I remembered a few things thanks to ya'll.

Hood
 

ed hess

race or get outta the way
if anyones truck needed a diet ....its mine! :D

4180 with me in it!

ed <----hangs head in shame


now that i have a new tow vehicle i can consider stripping this down.

ya know i never made a single run without even removing the spare!
 
a\c bracket is 12 pounds for all you guys that have pulled the a\c and still have the bracket still on there. plus it opens up the engine bay nicely
 

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
Turbo6 said:
I guess mine will stay heavy....no way I am taking off the A/C, heat ,stereo etc...

For me...it's all about the driving experience. If you're cruising with the windows up...then you're missing all the cat-calls.

SyTy's are not about daily driving...well they could be...

For me...there was nothing better than running down a modded Mitsu Galant or pimp slapping a 5.0 with a broken left foot...so you can't brake booost and beating him to the merger.

One of the more beautifull moments in my german experience are the 5000rpm blasts down the autobahn in my Accords. I'm all about the driving experience.
 

tyndago

New member
smeagol said:
- aluminum rear drums - these can be found in junkyards if you are that type. They are sold on Ebay too sometimes, just not as cheap.

Syclone and Typhoon rear drums are a little different

smeagol said:
- aluminum driveshaft - lighter, a bit more expensive.

- Carbon fiber driveshaft - even one better - added benefit if you have a fast truck that you won't need a driveshaft loop

And its rotating weight

smeagol said:
- factory Sy gate is ~35lbs I believe. Could make up a very lightweight version of that (using hacksaws, cut off wheel etc) using regular S10 gate. Someone WAS making CF versions of this also.

Yeah I had one of those. It was a bit lighter than stock. Rather than lightening the stock one/aftermarket one - just take it off....


smeagol said:
-aluminum water pump - Edelbrock etc.


The water pumps are damn heavy.... whats a aluminum one weigh.

Seats . James Sy had those plastic roller coaster seats in it.
 
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