TheObiJuan
Active member
given the new info, i need two bottles, the big ones, and i need them tonight... 
actually, when is bg stepping in?
actually, when is bg stepping in?
Nitrous question, '92 Typhoon
- Thread starter alllottofun
- Start date
I will be looking into nitrous when i rebuild my motor (eventually). Nitrous works great with turbo cars (delt with some vw 1.8t's with nitrous). A 50 wet shot on a NA car can be anywhere from 50-100 on a turbo car because of the cooling effect. Anyway a very good electric boost controller should be used to keep boost at the right levels. If and when i decide to go nitrous the truck will have different heads, cams, and a built bottom end and i wouldnt think of doing it if the truck wasnt running perfect before hand. So i say go for it and let us know how it works out.
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
The bottom line is if you are mechanically inclined and are willing to take chances you can make it work.
If you are scared to blow something up, or cant afford to rebuild it then stay away. Too many people just want to bolt something on and think that because it worked for someone else it will work for them.
Nitrous is a very cheap mod on a NA motor. On a turbo motor you need to address many issues other then bottle pressure and jet size. If you have tuned your current combo to the max, running your turbo in its peak efficiency, have perfected your 60fts etc. then it would be valid to consider n20.
If only the newbies would pay attention they would realize why everyone talks up about the ultimate chip, and not NOS .
If you are scared to blow something up, or cant afford to rebuild it then stay away. Too many people just want to bolt something on and think that because it worked for someone else it will work for them.
Nitrous is a very cheap mod on a NA motor. On a turbo motor you need to address many issues other then bottle pressure and jet size. If you have tuned your current combo to the max, running your turbo in its peak efficiency, have perfected your 60fts etc. then it would be valid to consider n20.
If only the newbies would pay attention they would realize why everyone talks up about the ultimate chip, and not NOS .
TheObiJuan
Active member
this should be a requirment for purchase imho:
"Nitrous is a very cheap mod on a NA motor. On a turbo motor you need to address many issues other then bottle pressure and jet size. If you have tuned your current combo to the max, running your turbo in its peak efficiency, have perfected your 60fts etc. then it would be valid to consider n20."
"Nitrous is a very cheap mod on a NA motor. On a turbo motor you need to address many issues other then bottle pressure and jet size. If you have tuned your current combo to the max, running your turbo in its peak efficiency, have perfected your 60fts etc. then it would be valid to consider n20."
Sorry, I'm biased in that I'm not a fan of nitrous.
I agree it can work, and work well, especially when you do your homework, but I don't have to stop at a shop for a refill of boost
Kidding aside... it's hard on a motor, lots more stressful than turbocharging IMO. Progressive controllers have helped a lot.
I've thought it through and done reading on it, and I'd rather stick with straight boost. If I was dead set on doing it in a *stock* Syty... here's what I'd do:
20g with 14cm2 housing (big exhaust flow)
HKS or serious wastegate on crossover
TPI plate setup
look into a propane setup like is used on Vipers (versus wet shot, where I don't trust the intake to distribute a fuel evenly)
serious ignition system, look into non-projected plugs
low low timing fueling ~10 degrees to start
50# injectors, overfueling at first, start pulling fuel back as you tune
You *could* scale the MAT versus fueling table strongly for a dry setup, but it'd take some real tuning to discover the MAT values the nitrous brings the temps to. I've even gone through the code to do it this way (you didn't believe me when I said I looked into this eh?)
Use the EGR output as a progressive controller, then there is a direct fueling factor that is versus EGR %, and you could dump in the fuel to compensate for the EGR (nitrous). Detect knock? Close up your EGR (nitrous) solenoid. I was going to look into the electronics of this, but gave up. This way would be very safe, as it is a pretty good closed loop system... throw nitrous in, if it knocks, shut nitrous off. Enter the wideband 02 for some extra tuning nonsense... and away you go.
There is a LOT of potential for someone into tuning and writing their own code... you can have some real fun. I already have a list of things I want to do with my truck.. Well, actually drive it is first on the list 8)
Anyways, after talking options and whatnot, I decided I'd rather work on straight pressurized airflow, rather than buying a lot of parts, refilling bottles, worrying about extra fittings, bottle pressure etc.
Heck I know of this one truck that has no porting done, using iron GM heads, a mild cam, and stronger internals, made 550rwhp on lots o boost.
If you wanted to build a reliable nitrous build, you'd need at least those parts IMO, and that power level is fine with me. I'd rather tune higher boost than high boost & nitrous.
Anyways, I can discuss options like this til the cows give ice cream.. but everything tells me not to use nitrous. I still like to compare the NMCA classes which were running mongo Nitrous motors versus small (relatively) turbocharged motors. The turbo guys were kicking ass and taking names, on motors that lasted 10 x better than the monster nitrous motors.
I agree it can work, and work well, especially when you do your homework, but I don't have to stop at a shop for a refill of boost
Kidding aside... it's hard on a motor, lots more stressful than turbocharging IMO. Progressive controllers have helped a lot.
I've thought it through and done reading on it, and I'd rather stick with straight boost. If I was dead set on doing it in a *stock* Syty... here's what I'd do:
20g with 14cm2 housing (big exhaust flow)
HKS or serious wastegate on crossover
TPI plate setup
look into a propane setup like is used on Vipers (versus wet shot, where I don't trust the intake to distribute a fuel evenly)
serious ignition system, look into non-projected plugs
low low timing fueling ~10 degrees to start
50# injectors, overfueling at first, start pulling fuel back as you tune
You *could* scale the MAT versus fueling table strongly for a dry setup, but it'd take some real tuning to discover the MAT values the nitrous brings the temps to. I've even gone through the code to do it this way (you didn't believe me when I said I looked into this eh?)
Use the EGR output as a progressive controller, then there is a direct fueling factor that is versus EGR %, and you could dump in the fuel to compensate for the EGR (nitrous). Detect knock? Close up your EGR (nitrous) solenoid. I was going to look into the electronics of this, but gave up. This way would be very safe, as it is a pretty good closed loop system... throw nitrous in, if it knocks, shut nitrous off. Enter the wideband 02 for some extra tuning nonsense... and away you go.
There is a LOT of potential for someone into tuning and writing their own code... you can have some real fun. I already have a list of things I want to do with my truck..
Well, actually drive it is first on the list 8) Anyways, after talking options and whatnot, I decided I'd rather work on straight pressurized airflow, rather than buying a lot of parts, refilling bottles, worrying about extra fittings, bottle pressure etc.
Heck I know of this one truck that has no porting done, using iron GM heads, a mild cam, and stronger internals, made 550rwhp on lots o boost.
If you wanted to build a reliable nitrous build, you'd need at least those parts IMO, and that power level is fine with me. I'd rather tune higher boost than high boost & nitrous.
Anyways, I can discuss options like this til the cows give ice cream.. but everything tells me not to use nitrous. I still like to compare the NMCA classes which were running mongo Nitrous motors versus small (relatively) turbocharged motors. The turbo guys were kicking ass and taking names, on motors that lasted 10 x better than the monster nitrous motors.
hitmansmurf
New member
ok heres one
ok heres one
what about using propain with the n.o.s ? Like with the nossle set up 110 octane . there are more cooling properties to deal with but its a idea.
the hitman
ok heres one
what about using propain with the n.o.s ? Like with the nossle set up 110 octane . there are more cooling properties to deal with but its a idea.
the hitman
AJ
New member
Reading the post, it seems like everyone has a opinon one way or the other about nitrous. The jury is still out in my courtroom, however I wonder if anyone has ever tried the sneaky peet system? What kind of HP does that thing throw out? It claims 1 to 2/10ths in the quarter. It seems fairly mild, but I have not been able to get enough data on it to make a judgment. Apart from the 2 lbs bottle, is it any different from the low HP kits?
Thxs, AJ
Thxs, AJ
TheObiJuan
Active member
since syty's are fuel injected the sneaky pete system would pose a problem. it is for carburated cars only