Oil filter adaptor FYI.

myclone

Donating Member
I was brain storming earlier on what its gonna take to do braided lines to the oil filter and noticed something that may be worth looking at on your truck(s) while I was looking at two remote filter adaptors I have.

Below is a pic of two stock GM adaptors for the remote mount filter found on sy/sys and 4wd S trucks and the one on the left if off of a 4wd blazer I parted out while the one on the right is a factory syty unit that I got off of a fellow board member several months ago. If you look real close you can see a HUGE difference in the port size/configuration on the side that bolts to the block. IMO the one on the right is a pretty significant restriction so if yoy take yours off at some point check it out to make sure you have the one with the big ports. If its not the one with the larger ports and it was me Id change it out. BTW, both of them have the same part number so I dunno how youd go about getting the right one.
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GM TURBO

Sell Out
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

I wonder if it is a pressure vs volume type of thinking. Smaller port - greater pressure - less volume?

But you're saying the one on the right is the SyTy one? Hmm..I'm taking mine off soon (seal replacement) I'll have to check it out.
 

myclone

Donating Member
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

GM TURBO said:
I wonder if it is a pressure vs volume type of thinking. Smaller port - greater pressure - less volume?

Without getting into a myclone style post length about oiling systems IMO the smaller port unit is a bad thing. One of many issues is the fact that smaller ports=the pump seeing more restriction hence the bypass in the pump opens up dumping the oil back into the pan instead of sending it where its needed most (the engine bearings). Lots and lots of 4.3s have came into my garage with spun rod bearings (not to mention on here too) so anything you can do to help the oiling system is gooder IMO.

But you're saying the one on the right is the SyTy one?
Yes, according to the fellow I got it from it was the stock unit off of his truck. He swapped it out due to leakage issues and offered the adaptor and lines for a couple of bucks so I picked it up to possibly use/mod to run braided lines on my truck at a later date. I was doing some cleaning and had the unit I got from him as well as the one I pirated off of the 4wd laying out and noticed the difference when I picked them up to measure the port size where the oil lines attach.

Hmm..I'm taking mine off soon (seal replacement) I'll have to check it out.
Same here too only mine isnt leaking (yet) but mine will be coming off due to the factory lines being in the way of my home built headers. Besides, Im sure its only a matter of time until the unit thats on my truck starts leaking too.

BTW, when you check yours out lemme know which style it has if you would please.
 

GM TURBO

Sell Out
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

myclone said:
Without getting into a myclone style post length about oiling systems IMO the smaller port unit is a bad thing. One of many issues is the fact that smaller ports=the pump seeing more restriction hence the bypass in the pump opens up dumping the oil back into the pan instead of sending it where its needed most (the engine bearings). Lots and lots of 4.3s have came into my garage with spun rod bearings (not to mention on here too) so anything you can do to help the oiling system is gooder IMO.

Yep - didn't think about the bypass.
 

sytyguy

Moderated User
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

Make: GMC
Model: JIMMY
Year: 1992
Type: ANY
Service Bulletin Number: CAMP/93C04A
NHTSA Item Number: 39429
Summary Description: REMOTE ENGINE OIL FILTER ADAPTER
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From - http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm

We use this site a lot for TSB updates for our customers.

Hood
 

ItsMyTy

Life is beter at 25 PSI
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

that bulletin was for the piece that the oil filter screws on, not the part mounted to the engine block
 

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

Im000688.jpg



does this help? I did it all in -8 and used 45deg angle ports on the adaptor on the block.





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Jer

Don't taze me bro!
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

[Devil's advocate] The one on the right has smaller ports but neither one is smaller than the hose so how could it increase pressure or create more strain on the pump? As long as they are not smaller than the ports leading in and out how can they be restrictive?[/Devil's advocate]

BTW, those braided lines look awesome! Someday when I get my current list taken care of I'll tackle all the rubber lines and replace with braided.
Ok.gif
 

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

myclone said:
Same here too only mine isnt leaking (yet) but mine will be coming off due to the factory lines being in the way of my home built headers. Besides, Im sure its only a matter of time until the unit thats on my truck starts leaking too.

BTW, when you check yours out lemme know which style it has if you would please.

Myclone, I have one of these sitting out in my parts washer now it wont fit an LS6 block btw
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<scratching head>
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I will look at it when I get to garage next time. More importantly, lets see the headers !!!




 

Falco

Donating Member
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

I made the same modification as Jwaller, but finally I had to weld in the adapters into the remote oil filter housing and into the block adapter as well. It was leaking all the time...

Later,
 

myclone

Donating Member
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

Jer said:
[Devil's advocate] The one on the right has smaller ports but neither one is smaller than the hose so how could it increase pressure or create more strain on the pump? As long as they are not smaller than the ports leading in and out how can they be restrictive?[/Devil's advocate]

IMO the above is a valid concern and not being devils advocate at all.

[engineer mode on] The short version of why the small port is an issue is that the small port you see in the unit on the right is that where the port for the oil line going to the filter intersects the small opening that is fed by the block is an extreme 90 deg turn. Oil as well as air, fuel, or any other medium does not like to make abrubt turns. The unit on the right with its small opening doest not give the oil an easy entrance to the intersecting port to the line going to the filter and IMO is a fairly bad design.

On the other hand the unit on the left while having the same size .250" ID port for the line has the larger opening at the block and while it still isnt optimum at least it allows the oil some "room" to make an easier entrance into the the oil line port[/engineer mode off].

Long version (myclone style post follows so get a cup of coffee, light up a smoke, and kick back for a while.)

Think about it this way... Oil has volume and mass just like a freight train does. Ever noticed that railroad tracks do not make abrubt 90deg turns? Ever wondered why? Disregarding the physical limitations of how sharply a locomotive can turn what would happen if a locomotive approached a 90 deg bend in the track at ~40mph? The locomotives momentum/mass could simply not want change direction immediately and it would keep going in the original direction of travel and derail into a smoldering mass of wadded up metal. Take the same locomotive only this time configure the tracks so that the 90 deg turn was in a gradual arc insted of an abrubt 90 deg turn. In this configuration you can easily change the direction of several tons of mass with no destruction or excitement.

Same deal with the roads you drive on... Can you turn a 90 deg corner at 65mph? No you have to slow down to a crawl, make the turn, then accellerate up to speed again. How about the changing direction at 65mph on the freeway? Its very easily done due to the gradual arc that turns are configured in on the freeway system. Exact same thing with your oiling system only on a much smaller scale due to oil not having quite the mass of a an automobile or locomotive. However, even with relatively speaking low mass of the oil its still a significant load on the small internal oil pump so anything you can do to decrease the load on the oil pump makes it more effecient at supplying oil to the bearings where its needed. Simply put you want the oil pump doing all its work to supply oil to the bearings NOT forcing the oil around sharp bends and/or restrictions. Since the oil pump can only do a given amount of work the more restrictions or disruptions in flow you take out of the system the more the oil pump can concentrate on supplying the bearings with oil which is its sole purpose in the first place.

Now that we've had our railroad/road design education lets apply the same thinking to something you can do at home next time you wash your truck to validate what Ive said and see what happens for yourself. Take your average garden hose and turn it on full blast. Point the hose directly at the bottom of an empty 5 gallon bucket and note what happens to the water. The velocity/mass of the water cant change direction abrubtly, unless you slow it down to a trickle, or it will bounce off the bottom of the bucket splashing in all different directions and really does no good other than soaking you. You will eventually fill the bucket with water but it will take longer/be less efficient. Now lets take the same hose and empty 5 gallon bucket but insted of pointing the hose directly at the bottom of the bucket hold it so the stream is perpondicular(sp?) to the side of the bucket. Now the water follows the gradual curve of the inside of the bucket and no matter how much water comes out it follows the side of the bucket in a nice gradual arc effectively "steering" its mass and not disrupting its flow path nearly as bad as hitting the bottom of the bucket straight on as well as being more efficient at filling the bucket.

Whats the above water hose/bucket BS got to do with oil? A lot.... The goal of the oiling system is to supply a steady flow of cool oil to the engine bearings which makes for an ineffecient system if there are a bunch of abrupt turns disrupting flow (remember pointing the water hose directly at the bottom of the bucket?) and causing the oil pump to work even harder to get the oil past all of those flow disrupting sharp 90 degree turns. Since space constraints dont allow for a nice sweeping arc for the oil to travel in an automotive oiling system and abrubt turns are required a larger opening around entrance of these abrubt turns gives the oil at least some room to make the turn with less disruption in flow which the adaptor on the left provides. Granted its not the best option but considering space constraints and cost issues faced by the manufacturers its better than having a large flow disruption/restriction which is what the unit on the right is.

Look at these fittings...

To fluid this fitting presents the same abstruction that the 90 deg bend in railroad tracks does to a locomotive or an intersection does to you while driving
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This fitting is MUCH better to make an abrubt direction change since it has a gradual arc instead of an abrubt turn like the above fitting. Easier for the liquid to flow through and which in the case of an oiling system provides better flow and doesnt heat the oil from being sheared on a molecular level.
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jwaller said:
does this help? I did it all in -8 and used 45deg angle ports on the adaptor on the block.

Actually it does give good a visual on what not to do. While having 45 deg bends in the fittings at the block is fine the 90 deg bends in the lines coming out of the filter going to the radiator isnt optimum. The fittings going into the radiator are the style that you want everywhere if you have room. Granted space constraints may have cause this compromise but its not what you want if you can avoid it.
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BigBadSmoosh

Picking fights on I-65 since 2013
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

ok, so someone machine a remote filter that has a "straight" connection in and out. Get to it, chop chop.

As much sense as everything Myclone is saying makes, the original engineers designed it to meet a certain spec once that spec is met they do not have to do any more "work" very few things are "over-engineered" simply for cost reasons.

there are 4.3s running with WELL over 200k miles on them, and they all use the same remote oil filter, so no offense, but I doubt its that much of a bottleneck.
 

Jer

Don't taze me bro!
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

Good points but I don't think you can compare an iron and metal train going down the tracks to a given amount of fluid when it comes to turning corners. Newton's first law states that a body in motion will remain in motion unless acted upon by an outside force. This doesn't have as big an effect in our situation on motor oil as by nature it was designed for lubrication and therefore the resistance (and friction) created are minimal and therefore not an issue. The 90 degree bends are manufactured and used extensively w/o recourse and I doubt that there is any noticeable back pressure created if any.

Something else to consider, w/o resistance there's no pressure. We all know how bad it is to lose oil pressure.
 

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

myclone said:
Granted space constraints may have cause this compromise but its not what you want if you can avoid it.

this is why those couldnt be used on the adaptor. I couldnt get them to fit.


I dont think it's as much of an issue as you do though. I have driven/worked on 4wd 4.3's s-trucks with over 300k on the original oil lines which have the same 90 deg bends.
 

93ty475

Donating Member
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

jwaller said:
I did it all in -8 and used 45deg angle ports on the adaptor on the block.


i used 8an.... 90's worked for me on the block adapter....semi daily driver, no leaks, no problems so far...aeroquip hose and industrial quality reuseable fittings....line isn't outer steel braided, but has an inner steel layer ($8.50 a foot)...

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myclone

Donating Member
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

smaug said:
ok, so someone machine a remote filter that has a "straight" connection in and out. Get to it, chop chop.
Its been done by another owner eons ago from what I understand but Ive never seen it to get a look at what was done. Im going to modify mine to more my liking though. Ive got enough projects already without something else to build from scratch ;) .
there are 4.3s running with WELL over 200k miles on them, and they all use the same remote oil filter.
I agree there are 4.3s out there that have went well over 200k miles. Ive got one sitting in the corner of my garage now that ran fine and had ~180k on it when I yanked it out of the 4wd blazer it was in which was driven daily by a non car guy (read: prolly never saw WOT). However, how many sytys do you hear about making the 2 or 300k mark on the original engine? I only know of 1 or 2 right off and only one of those is touted as being on the original engine IIRC. Big difference in stress levels on the engine when you compare a N/A 4.3 and one that sees 15psi of boost on a regular basis and as we all know other than the pistons and main caps whats the difference between a N/A 4.3 and a stock syty engine? Nothing so the oiling system was designed for a N/A engine but was carried over to an engine that now puts out double the hp/tq of what it was originally designed for. Im thinking any improvements you can do to the oiling system arent gonna hurt anything one bit and may just save your wallet.


Jer said:
Good points but I don't think you can compare an iron and metal train going down the tracks to a given amount of fluid when it comes to turning corners. Newton's first law states that a body in motion will remain in motion unless acted upon by an outside force. This doesn't have as big an effect in our situation on motor oil as by nature it was designed for lubrication and therefore the resistance (and friction) created are minimal and therefore not an issue. The 90 degree bends are manufactured and used extensively w/o recourse and I doubt that there is any noticeable back pressure created if any.

While I used the train explanation to get the point accross you are correct in that comparing oil to a locomotive is about as much of an opposite as you can get but the theory is still the same (besides, I like trains). When talking about oiling systems you have to scale your thinking down in size/weight and I really couldnt come up with anything else right off the top of my head to do the comparison. Anyways, turning a 90 degree corner for oil is just as hard as for a locomotive but on a much much smaller scale. As Newton stated oil that weighs a few ounces (or anything else) doesnt want to change direction any more than something that weighs several tons does until its acted upon by something else. In this case its the wall of of the filter adaptor that it must slam into, slow down, turn the corner, then be accellerated again by the pump. This all happens very quickly so youll never see it on the gauge but it will cause the oil to be sheared on a miro level which adds heat and disrupts the flow (shearing of the trans fluid in the TC is what causes most of the heat, and a lot of it, in that system).

Unfortunately I cant get a pic of the configuration of how the oil must negotiate the turn into the opening down in the bottom of the adaptor (its horrible, trust me) but the main point Im trying to get across is that the unit with the tiny opening leaves very little room for the oil to make the turn into the port which means there is an incredible amount of flow interuption in there. Using the adaptor with the larger block opening will help the flow at that point quite a bit and if you feel industrious some work with a die grinder will help even more.

I will also agree that 90 deg bends are used in systems every day with no ill affects but you have to consider the size of the opening relative to flow. A 90 deg bend isnt as much of an issue if its size is designed to minimize the affects of the 90. Talk to any of the fitting manufacturers and ask them if having say six 90 deg bends in a fluid circuit will perform the same as a straight piece of tubing if every thing is kept the same (pressure, temp, volume, inside diameter). Anyone in the fluid transfer industry will tell you less sharp bends equals a more efficient system and to get the same flow/volume you will need to increase the pump output, line size, or a combination of the two if space constraints wont allow for just one. Dont take my word for it call Russell, Aeroquip or Earls and ask em.

You mentioned that you cannot have pressure without restriction which is correct however you are forgetting what the pressure is provided by in an oiling system. In an perfect oiling system all the pressure should be provided by the bearing clearances at the oils destination and any inefficiency between the pump and the bearings is just extra "work" the pump must over come to get the oil to its designated point. If you put a bunch of flow inhibitors (sharp 90s) in the circuit then by the time the oil gets to the bearings its hotter than was start with not to mention at a lower velocity which reduces the oils ability to do its intended job. You MUST look at oiling systems in several dimensions not just as flow or pressure since the oil does several things. If the point was just to get some oil to the bearings then 10psi of oil pressure circulated by a tiny 12v electric pump would be sufficient in any engine but thats not the case. The oil not only must circulate at the right speed to pull heat out of the bearing surfaces and their corosponding journals the oil film must be able to hold its integraty from the several thousand pound dynamic loads that it is subjected to on the rod/main journals. There is also the mechanical limits of an outomotive oiling system to consider too such as the bypass in the pump. The more back pressure you have the more the pressure bypass opens which dumps the oil right back into the pan without going anywhere other than through the pump which adds heat due to the pumps design (gear rotor) that shears the oil. Theres also the addes load on the distributor gear that drives the pump off of the cam, the timing chain that drives the cam, and lastly extra parasitic drag from the extra hp it takes to turn all of that monkey business.

One last thing...and this is kind of apples and oranges but the theory is the same... Why do we go through so much trouble to port polish heads? How bout getting rid of factory exhaust/manifolds and replacing them with mandrel bent exhaust/headers? Will a factory crimp style bent exhaust flow the same as a mandrel bent exhaust of the same diameter? Nope, but why? The diameter is the same.. Its mostly due to the sharp/uneven way factory bent exhaust is made interupting the flow causing the engine to work harder to expel the exhaust which is directly comparable to the way the oil paths are configured internal to the engine since the oil pump must work harder to expel the oil to its intended destination (not your gauge you look at but the engine bearings). This is assuming that you are putting on headers/exhaust and porting heads for performance not just for the oooh ahhhs among your friends when they look at it ;) .

Something else to consider, w/o resistance there's no pressure. We all know how bad it is to lose oil pressure.
You are 100% correct but you are forgetting what the oil is for. As I stated above the oil is not designed to actuate a guage for us to look at and pressure is relative to the amount of restriction which in a perfect oiling system that would only be the bearing clearances not the path ways to get the oil there. Unfortunately a pefect oiling system will never see an automotive application so its one big compromise since due to space limitations, cost, and engineering guidelines you will have some inefficiencies built into the system even before you get the oil to the bearings. That being said anything you can do to reduce those extra inefficiencies wont hurt.

jwaller said:
I dont think it's as much of an issue as you do though.
I never said the sky was falling either. Its something I noticed that can easily be addressed should someone remove their filter adaptor and notice they have the restrictive one. Swap in the bigger of the two and your done, the oil pump is a little happier, you have a little more piece of mind, and your oil temps will thank you by half a degree or so.

I have driven/worked on 4wd 4.3's s-trucks with over 300k on the original oil lines which have the same 90 deg bends.
I have too but how many of those werent N/A 4.3s but original engined sytys again?
 

Jer

Don't taze me bro!
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

Yes, the oil has mass.. but VERY little of it. So slowing it down to make a corner would be no where near the force needed to make a train turn a 90 degree turn. It's volume is so low that it wouldn't be notice able to you or me on a gauge nor would it affect an oil pump. Maybe if a truck were to go 1,000,000 miles you might see a shortened life of maybe a mile... but doubtful. My point is that it seems like a lot of effort for something that will probably have no effect on the outcome.

As for the press bent exhaust, that makes a difference because in a 3" exhaust for instance, the pressed part is actually smaller than 3" and would be the overall bottle neck to the system. If you want to compare this to an exhaust system... say you have a 3" straight through exhaust and the muffler has a 1.2" tip on it... do you really think that a press bent vs. mandrel bent 3" bend further upstream would make that much of a difference? I doubt it. Sticking with the same example, let's say you have a catalytic converter to that has been gutted for greater airflow. The problem with that is the substantially larger open space creates turbulence and as a result, added back pressure. Even though it's not as much back pressure as the restrictive cat, it's still more than adding in a straight through 3" pipe. The best exhaust is the same size all the way through. So, is it possible that the same could be applied to this that a larger outlet might not be better but might even create another issue all together? You say it won't hurt yet there's a possibility that it could.

Not questioning your intelligence as you clearly know a lot about the SyTy trucks. Just keeping with the conversation here.
 

myclone

Donating Member
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

Jer said:
My point is that it seems like a lot of effort for something that will probably have no effect on the outcome.

To shorten up the response and I think youre missing the reason I started this thread was that if you take your adaptor off for some reason (leaking lines, engine rebuild, whatever) take a look at it and if its the small port unit swap it for the better design. I deffinately wasnt insinuating that everyone in syty land were on the verge of blowing up their trucks if they didnt swap it out ASAP just that if you have to remove it then check it out and swap it if you want to. Just a suggestion from someone thats been working with internal combustion engines, oiling systems in particular, for about 22yrs now.

As for the press bent exhaust, that makes a difference because in a 3" exhaust for instance, the pressed part is actually smaller than 3" and would be the overall bottle neck to the system. If you want to compare this to an exhaust system... say you have a 3" straight through exhaust and the muffler has a 1.2" tip on it... do you really think that a press bent vs. mandrel bent 3" bend further upstream would make that much of a difference? I doubt it. Sticking with the same example, let's say you have a catalytic converter to that has been gutted for greater airflow. The problem with that is the substantially larger open space creates turbulence and as a result, added back pressure. Even though it's not as much back pressure as the restrictive cat, it's still more than adding in a straight through 3" pipe. The best exhaust is the same size all the way through. So, is it possible that the same could be applied to this that a larger outlet might not be better but might even create another issue all together? You say it won't hurt yet there's a possibility that it could.

While correct I believe your missing the point I tried to get across..Lets try it this way... Whats the purpose of the exhaust on a performance vehicle? To get the exh gasses out of the engine and to its destination with as much efficiency as possible within the design limitations of a given vehicle with all things considered like cylinder scavenging, velocity, etc. What is the destination for the exh gasses and what "work" does it do once it exits the end of the system? The atmosphere is the destination and once its there we're done with it unless we're the EPA. Now, what the purpose of the oil passages in an engine? To get the oil to its destination the most efficient way possible within the design limitations of the vehicle and that destination being the bearing surfaces where its purpose for even being in the engine is found. Once the oil is expelled from the various clearances (rod bearings for instance) we're done with it and could care less what it does as long as it returns to the pan to be reused again (generally speaking). Like exh systems any improvement you can make in oiling system path to get the oil to its destination makes the system more efficient at doing its job (supplying the bearings).

Consider the oiling system one of the most important parts of any car and if you can improve it in any way you wont hurt anything I promise. Will swapping the oil filter adaptor make ~10 extra hp? Prolly not even .1hp but if you can improve the reliability of an already questionable system in any way for a couple of bucks would it be wasted money? IMO it wouldnt be. Would I tell someone to take their truck to a shop and pay someone else labor just to swap out the adaptor? Not a chance but on the other hand if they are replacing a leaking adaptor or pulling the engine what Im saying is to check it out and swap it while youre in there if you have the small ported one. It cant hurt and might cost $25 for parts. Thats the cheapest youll get for any piece of mind on these trucks.

Not questioning your intelligence as you clearly know a lot about the SyTy trucks. Just keeping with the conversation here.

No offense taken at all since oiling systems are kinda my thing and I enjoy discussing/debating/argueing about them. I know I could prolly find something more exciting to be enthusiastic about but it makes me happy so why not :) .
 

BigBadSmoosh

Picking fights on I-65 since 2013
Re: Oil filter adaptor FYI.

I agree na 4.3 < turbo 4.3..

If there is a easy fix to this "bottleneck" why not do it.

if there isn't forget it.

good find myclone, you get a cookie.:tup:
 
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