Saudi Syclone - 2612

DJ B

New member
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

maybe somebody threw a nut inside.
only with a handfull of people does it happen.
 

JSM

Active member
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

ls motor NA, 6 speed manual.

Reliable, get good gas mileage and be fun. Maybe not fast but be fun as heck to drive around.
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

ls motor NA, 6 speed manual.

Reliable, get good gas mileage and be fun. Maybe not fast but be fun as heck to drive around.

Right now my budget is severely constrained so I'm planning on stripping the front end and cleaning it as best as I can in preparation for an engine going in one day. The wing and the bed are the most obvious external blemishes and will get some attention soon as well. I see people with great results from POR15 and equivalent so I guess I'll be getting dirty cleaning it all up this summer.

I imagine a manual/LS conversion would be problematic as well! Could I turbo the LS at a later stage or would the comp be too high? I'm not sure how easy they are to come across over here as well.
 

JSM

Active member
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

4.8 or 5.3 running engines here in US can be had for less than $1k sometimes even with LS computer. Parts from 4.3 (manifolds etc.) could bring that much.

Trans not sure what they sell for, bit of work to make AWD work but its been done.

Overall I think it would be cheap solution if your not wanting a full out 5.7 or 6.0 Ls motor.

People turbo them all the time. I'd do NA for just a fun reliable and cheap driver though.
 

ukty

New member
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

My vote's for an LS, RWD and manual trans, but whatever you go for it's good to see another Sy saved. Looking forward to helping out where I can - for a change!
 

jpalmer

New member
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

Carcraft or someone like that took a cammed, arp bolted, stock internal 4.8 to over. Thousand ponies with a twin turbo setup. Do that with an 80e or 400 would be nasty. 4.8's locally go for 600 complete on a regular basis... fyi.
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

Holy shit!

Awesome link!

How do I get my hands on that??! Wow! Wonder how much extra fab work that would be...

Transmission wouldn't be cheap either. Hmmm.

That's got me thinking.

Thanks Justin!
 

jpalmer

New member
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

Its just like any other ls truck motor. Iron block, "crappy" heads with nothing special inside. guys have spun them to 9 grand is what i hear. it is an underrated motor. small displacement means turn the boost up.

Rpm should sell swap kits and maybe some stuff on the s-10 forums. I know somebody building twin turbo ls kits but for fullsize . not sure how it would fit. you don't need 1200+ ponies, but 7-8 should be easy enough :lol:
 

vinnieTy

TY # 1889
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

Best of luck with what ever route you go. Like someone said another one saved!!!! As for the steering shock i have one on my truck. Was there when i bought it so i just left it. Not sure how much it helps but i'm assuming it does something, HAHA
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

Well having looked around for the engine alternatives and considering the costs and implications of each, I decided to put a v6 vortec block in the truck.

The 4.8 motors are not easy to come by and the additional expense of fitting the exhaust manifolds plus all the custom bracketry/fitting/ECM changes etc are not in my budget at this point in my life so I aim to just get it running as close to stock as possible.

Sadly the unavailability of motors here in the UK means I have to put in the vortec and with that come the associated requirements:

PLX AFR/WB02
Ostrich setup
Drilling/tapping heads
Welding and machining the intake etc.

A good start is this thread: v6 4.3 vortec swap with links to various other threads that had good information.

I might as well update this post. I picked up a 2003 Vortec Long Block from a junkyard. I stripped the motor down and cleaned it up. I didn't get a 4wd motor, so I had to buy a 96 and later 4x4 Oil and an Oil pump pickup (later one use a 3/4" Inlet) I also picked up a junkyard starter for the Vortec motor (a 1996 Up starter is required in this swap, the crank is offset). I was going to buy a GM starter until I saw the price, GM cost is almost $400.

ShortBlock.jpg


To do this swap you will need a new oil pan gasket 10220906, -10AN Bung for the turbo oil return. I replaced the stock cam with turbo custom grind (balance shaft cams are specific to balance shaft motors). The balance shaft timing set has a ton of slop in it. I bought the GM service bulletin upgrade, you will need all three parts.

12458911 Chain Kit and new gears
89017257 Tensioner
89017259 Cover Kit.

Also since your dealing with a Vortec motor their are a few fastener torque differences, here is listing (Tooky provided this link in his epic heads/cam swap thread)
http://www3.telus.net/subvelocity/tighteningspecs.html

Here is a couple of thread about E-Rue Sawp (who convinced me to try this)

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36545
http://phpbb2.turbotimelounge.us/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1144


The vehicle it is from is a 1999 Chevrolet Blazer and as luck would have it, it comes with the right pan for us.

I knew that the newer engines wouldn't fit our pan but I didn't realise that the newer pans will fit a stock SyTy (according to E-RUE). Pretty cool. They look better but that seems like a bit of a hassle!

Blazersump001.jpg


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I hope this is the right pan for me - they're not easy to come by in the UK.

So the plan is now to get the most essential components to get the engine in the truck. One annoyance is that I only have a stock Sy starter and getting an alternative is another £150 I can do without spending so I'll need to see what options there are for that.

I paid £579 shipped for the motor with 53k on the clock and just need the solid mounts and the pan tapped and I should be able to throw it in there over the summer. I plan to prep the frame a bit before it goes in of course.

Late july should see some progress as I have to:

tap the vortec heads
modify the intake
paint the frame
tap the pan for the oil drain

And lots more.

Stay tuned!

theend031_0.jpg
 
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dutchty

Member
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

Nice job you gonna do.
HE'S Hooked:rotf:
But In the future I also was thinking to go for a 4.3 Vortec swap but then the newer marine versions of mercruiser /volvopenta 6 bangers all GM based.
only need to replace the crank,cam and pistons then if I'm right.
and they are already 4bolt.:tup:
But not least its easy and cheap to find one ;)
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

Engine cleaned and getting prepped for delivery. I also had to pay for a new starter. £90 instead of £150 which was good.

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I've ordered some pulleys and will get some POR15 in the UK to paint over the frame. Front clip needs to come off and with any luck I'll be able to drop the engine in by the end of my 2 weeks down here.

I hope it's the same as this pan - it looks different.

OilPan.jpg
 
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Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

Stripped the engine

655c9862.jpg


Drilled pilot holes for the taps

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Started tapping the heads

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Brett spotted this...

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And this on the other head...

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So all the work into the heads was for nothing. Well, other than practice. :tdown:

So I thought about using the stock heads from the damaged block but found these:

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A very good price on a set of used heads.

We also did this:

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Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

The accessory brackets have also been sprayed and are nice and clean. The alternator is FUBAR. It's all seized up so I'm going to take the stock one off my truck and put it on there. I'll install the CS-144 that I have onto the Typhoon and that should fix me up.

I should get the engine in the truck next week if the heads arrive ok. Fingers crossed.

Then it's troubleshooting time.
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Saudi Syclone - 2612

Well, it's been an emotional week. I've drilled the replacement vortec heads and they are now bolted up to the truck but on assembly, I noticed some bad detonation damage on the piston top. I don't know how much life this engine has in it but I suspect it's going to need a total rebuild at some point in its future. I can't afford to do anything about that right now so I'm just going to run it and hope it's enough to be driveable, even if it's not the fastest. That way I can move all the crap out of the way and do a better job on it a bit later on when I have some money and the car isn't 6 hours away from me.

Here are some pics:

I had to throw out the old engine so pitched it..

DCC25C36-CD73-48AF-BDBC-EE9A4C9692A3-345-0000007FFE13D04F.jpg


Turbo and pass side assembled..

1EF98CFC-7EC5-43DD-AC68-10EBFBA51473-345-0000008010CE0579.jpg


Then I found all the piston damage.

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46B980EA-DBB0-4BAF-B526-F1F7D3194467-345-000000806B63842C.jpg


The other two (1 and 5 were ok):

7453CBF8-35E3-4C9C-A62E-944922D4E774-345-000000809E4B9C78.jpg


EAC3925D-0626-45C7-9D18-B2F1BADF0874-345-000000807837070B.jpg


I scoured the new heads and deck of the block so all the gasket material was gone. Came up pretty well.

09DBF563-AF34-40F6-BED7-996B0C02C13A-345-00000080A6DE98BC.jpg


I also had to mount the oil drain fitting. I used a 3/4 NPT tap and a XXmm hole saw. With hindisght, this was too big and gave me no margin for error if I messed up. I also need to make sure the fitting clears the rods inside the pan. I also needed to grind off part of the stock casting so I could have it as far from the starter and the motor mounts as possible.

39D9EFFB-C84D-48EA-B7C3-3926F231308B-345-00000080E4E18AB8.jpg


I'd have preferred to weld in a bung but I can't weld aluminium just yet so this was the next option. It looks pretty good. I also found my old turbo coolant drain from when I bought my Ty before I changed everything. A penny saved etc..

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Engine mostly assembled. Next job is to set the valves and rockers up before I drop it in the truck.

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My Dad may be getting rid of his warehouse so I need to clear as much crap away as possible. At the moment the truck is full and I need to get it cleared. What better way than to assemble it?

:D

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It's all going in here this week (tonight???). One thing I want to do is invest the time in the motor mount mod as I am using solids.

75FA7222-000E-4C78-B7DD-78EB9AAC4ABA-345-000000803D8F13D7.jpg


On a sadder note, looks like I have some bad rust on two of the fenders. I think I am going to have to replace them but will see. The main thing is the truck isn't exposed to the elements anymore but that may change. I think the salted UK roads did it no good whatsoever.
 
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