Solid mount question

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Does anyone know if there are any differences between the RPM motor mounts and the JS motor mounts as far as length or position of tabs? I'm going to switch to an RPM steering shaft that fits inside the steering column instead of the DD joint that mounts outside for more clearance, but I still need a lot more room.

I'm having an interference issue with the header tube and the steering column.

main.php
 
Re: Solid mount question

move the steering shaft over. its really easy and has lots of room to move. its really common on v8 swaps and will take a lot less time than swapping mounts. i had the exact same issue with my headers and steering shaft. i took me less than an hour to move it over. i can tell you how if you need some instructions.
 
Re: Solid mount question

What he said or the better fix would be to pull the motor out and ship it to me to check if it has the same problem in my truck. I could give you n answer in say 2 maybe 3 years.
 

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Solid mount question

Yeah I see the 4 bolts to loosen the column.

move the steering shaft over. its really easy and has lots of room to move. its really common on v8 swaps and will take a lot less time than swapping mounts. i had the exact same issue with my headers and steering shaft. i took me less than an hour to move it over. i can tell you how if you need some instructions.
 
Last edited:
Re: Solid mount question

take the bottom 4 bolts out. loosen the top two adjustment nuts and then cut some of the sealant between the mount and the firewall to make it easier to pull apart. then pull and yank on the steering wheel like crazy to get it loose from the firewall, tighten the two adjustment nuts to hold it in place while you work. slot the firewall with a dremel about 3/4" to allow the 4 bolts to move to the left and then reinstall with some more silicone sealant.
 

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Solid mount question

I'll give it a shot thanks.

take the bottom 4 bolts out. loosen the top two adjustment nuts and then cut some of the sealant between the mount and the firewall to make it easier to pull apart. then pull and yank on the steering wheel like crazy to get it loose from the firewall, tighten the two adjustment nuts to hold it in place while you work. slot the firewall with a dremel about 3/4" to allow the 4 bolts to move to the left and then reinstall with some more silicone sealant.
 

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Solid mount question

All custom designed to work with the custom chrome moly lower suspension. Going to send some diagonal tubing through the firewall to tie into the roll cage for even more stifness.
i like those shock hoops where'd you source them, i think i need a set
 

mackeral5

New member
Re: Solid mount question

it's made by Howe. they are popular with circle track racers, offroaders, etc. I've never used one but they are supposed to be excellent in quality. another plus is the Howe box is already painted/coated, so no problems with corrosion. unlike my AGR box on my truck which is already corroding...
 

Houseofperformance

switchhappy!!!
Re: Solid mount question

you could lift the engine a bit by putting something like these under your solid mounts:
BunaPads.jpg


your truck screams for irs and rack&pinion steering btw!
 
Top