ticking - no knock, just annoying.

[Quickstop [UK]]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

rene, you are a ****.

 

[SY-1193]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

Did you soak your lifters in oil before putting them in the block? Did you prime the engine and then adjust your valves after? If you answered no to these questions you probably just need to re-adjust your rockers they are probably a bit loose....no big deal. Some other good ideas listed above: to check...the injectors will make more noise if the fuel rail is tight on them. Adjust the fuel rail so the injectors sort of float in between or the rail will resonate the noise of the injectors. Sounds like a combination of all of these. Just readjust and check it all again. I recommend an oil change right away if you haven't yet...to insure you get any thing floating around from the fresh rebuild gets drained out of there. One other question for you...did you put in a new radiator? The reason I ask is if you had a previous engine go bad and there was metal pieces that ran through the radiator (oil cooler part of the radiator) sometimes it becomes lodged in the small passages and if you reuse the radiator in your rebuild as soon as the engine builds up heat the pieces come loose and get into your fresh engine.

Just some tips...good luck.

 

[turbodig]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

I doubt highly that's injectors.

I'd verify valve adjustment. Also make sure valve geometry is ok, and that the spring coils aren't binding a little.

How did you adjust them?

Does it persist when the motor is really warm?

 

[Big Mike]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

The 875 lifters only need 1/8 turn:

Pro Magnum™ Hydraulic Lifters
Applicable Part #s:
858-12, 858-16, 862-12, 862-16, 863-16, 865-12, 865-16, 867-12, 867-16, 875-12, 875-16, 885-12,
885-16, 887-16, 8920-16, 8921-16, 8931-16, 8934-16, 8953-16, 8954-16
Thank you for choosing COMP Cams® products; we are proud to be your manufacturer of choice.
Please read this instruction sheet carefully before beginning installation, and also take a moment to
review the included limited warranty information.
The following instructions cover the correct guidelines for installing COMP Cams® Pro Magnum™
Hydraulic Lifters. All Pro Magnum Lifters™ require an adjustable valve train for proper operation.
Through various testing we have discovered that lifter preload should be set between zero and 1/8 of a
turn for optimal performance. Although the method for setting preload on a hydraulic flat tappet and
hydraulic roller lifter are the same, the break-in procedure for each lifter is not. Please review this
break-in procedure for flat tappet camshafts.
Important: On hydraulic flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the inner spring must
be removed during break-in. Also, we do not recommend the use of synthetic motor oils during
the break-in process. Engines should be filled with a non-synthetic, heavy-duty motor oil along with
COMP Cams® Break-In Oil Additive (Part #159). This allows the lifters to establish rotation and
develop a good wear pattern. As soon as the engine fires, bring the rpm up to 2000 to 2500 during the
first 30 minutes of operation. Slower engine speeds will not supply the camshaft with an adequate
amount of oil for the break-in period. The engine rpm may be varied periodically from 2000 to 2500 to
direct oil splash to different areas of the camshaft. After the 30 minute break-in period, change the oil
and filter again to be sure all contaminants and break-in lube are removed from the engine. The inner
valve springs can now be replaced.
Setting Hydraulic Lifter Preload
The correct amount of lifter preload is important to help efficiently control the valve train. Insufficient
preload will cause valve train noise, while too much may damage the hydraulics of the lifter or cause
low manifold vacuum. By following the four steps listed you will help ensure proper engine
performance and reliability.

 

[Quickstop [UK]]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

Did you soak your lifters in oil before putting them in the block? Did you prime the engine and then adjust your valves after? If you answered no to these questions you probably just need to re-adjust your rockers they are probably a bit loose....no big deal. Some other good ideas listed above: to check...the injectors will make more noise if the fuel rail is tight on them. Adjust the fuel rail so the injectors sort of float in between or the rail will resonate the noise of the injectors. Sounds like a combination of all of these. Just readjust and check it all again. I recommend an oil change right away if you haven't yet...to insure you get any thing floating around from the fresh rebuild gets drained out of there. One other question for you...did you put in a new radiator? The reason I ask is if you had a previous engine go bad and there was metal pieces that ran through the radiator (oil cooler part of the radiator) sometimes it becomes lodged in the small passages and if you reuse the radiator in your rebuild as soon as the engine builds up heat the pieces come loose and get into your fresh engine.

Just some tips...good luck.

I soaked the pushrods but I don't recall 100% the lifters being submerged - I used GM assembly lube on them I think.

The radiator is brand new.

I will definitely do an oil change when I get the first opportunity.

I primed the engine but it was with a hand drill so may not have been effective - I didn't see oil coming out of the lifters/rockers for a minute or two after the truck ran for the first time and that was the last time I did a valve adjustment.

I am leaning on the lifters not being primed properly and the adjustment being out of whack.

Loosening the injector rail is a great idea too.

All sage advice - thanks

I doubt highly that's injectors.

I'd verify valve adjustment. Also make sure valve geometry is ok, and that the spring coils aren't binding a little.

How did you adjust them?

Does it persist when the motor is really warm?

I need to get the covers off to assess this. How to I check for spring bind? They were pre assembled heads from RPM for the vortec performance package so I didn't adjust the springs at all.

For the valves I adjusted it as per the sequence - do 6 of the arms and then roatate the engine and do the other 6 - I forget the order now but it didn't run at all before then and after I followed Don W's advice it ran like a dream. :tup:

I may have a video of it just after I did that adjustment - I'll see if the ticking was there.

I haven't had the truck running long ennough to compare the noise. Hopefully I'll get a chance to when I get to work on it over the 4 days for Christmas. If I can drive it home...

Thanks Dig

The 875 lifters only need 1/8 turn:

Pro Magnum™ Hydraulic Lifters
Applicable Part #s:
858-12, 858-16, 862-12, 862-16, 863-16, 865-12, 865-16, 867-12, 867-16, 875-12, 875-16, 885-12,
885-16, 887-16, 8920-16, 8921-16, 8931-16, 8934-16, 8953-16, 8954-16
Thank you for choosing COMP Cams® products; we are proud to be your manufacturer of choice.
Please read this instruction sheet carefully before beginning installation, and also take a moment to
review the included limited warranty information.
The following instructions cover the correct guidelines for installing COMP Cams® Pro Magnum™
Hydraulic Lifters. All Pro Magnum Lifters™ require an adjustable valve train for proper operation.
Through various testing we have discovered that lifter preload should be set between zero and 1/8 of a
turn for optimal performance. Although the method for setting preload on a hydraulic flat tappet and
hydraulic roller lifter are the same, the break-in procedure for each lifter is not. Please review this
break-in procedure for flat tappet camshafts.
Important: On hydraulic flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the inner spring must
be removed during break-in. Also, we do not recommend the use of synthetic motor oils during
the break-in process. Engines should be filled with a non-synthetic, heavy-duty motor oil along with
COMP Cams® Break-In Oil Additive (Part #159). This allows the lifters to establish rotation and
develop a good wear pattern. As soon as the engine fires, bring the rpm up to 2000 to 2500 during the
first 30 minutes of operation. Slower engine speeds will not supply the camshaft with an adequate
amount of oil for the break-in period. The engine rpm may be varied periodically from 2000 to 2500 to
direct oil splash to different areas of the camshaft. After the 30 minute break-in period, change the oil
and filter again to be sure all contaminants and break-in lube are removed from the engine. The inner
valve springs can now be replaced.
Setting Hydraulic Lifter Preload
The correct amount of lifter preload is important to help efficiently control the valve train. Insufficient
preload will cause valve train noise, while too much may damage the hydraulics of the lifter or cause
low manifold vacuum. By following the four steps listed you will help ensure proper engine
performance and reliability.

Thanks Big Mike.

What I can't really tell with any degree of certainty is at what point you start the 1/8th turn. If it is only 1/8th then I may have a little too much preload in any case.

I felt for 0 lash which is when you can just feel the friction of the rods and then turn 1/8th right?

I think that I need to do a valve adjustment before doing anything. I will however order some new lifters just in case.

What I am worried about now is that I had the valves adjusted badly and it prevented the truck from running. Could I have damaged the lifters in the process of doing that?

Effectively they weren't primed properly and the engine was turning over powered by the starter - so there may have been no oil in there and they were too tight. Could that cause a collapse?

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll get to the bottom of this.

 

[Quickstop [UK]]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.



Filmed with a diffferent camera and the rpm was way higher due to the injector problems I had - it doesn't help much.

 

[bezerk]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

I soaked the pushrods but I don't recall 100% the lifters being submerged - I used GM assembly lube on them I think.

The radiator is brand new.

I will definitely do an oil change when I get the first opportunity.

I primed the engine but it was with a hand drill so may not have been effective - I didn't see oil coming out of the lifters/rockers for a minute or two after the truck ran for the first time and that was the last time I did a valve adjustment.

I am leaning on the lifters not being primed properly and the adjustment being out of whack.

Loosening the injector rail is a great idea too.

All sage advice - thanks



I need to get the covers off to assess this. How to I check for spring bind? They were pre assembled heads from RPM for the vortec performance package so I didn't adjust the springs at all.

For the valves I adjusted it as per the sequence - do 6 of the arms and then roatate the engine and do the other 6 - I forget the order now but it didn't run at all before then and after I followed Don W's advice it ran like a dream. :tup:

I may have a video of it just after I did that adjustment - I'll see if the ticking was there.

I haven't had the truck running long ennough to compare the noise. Hopefully I'll get a chance to when I get to work on it over the 4 days for Christmas. If I can drive it home...

Thanks Dig



Thanks Big Mike.

What I can't really tell with any degree of certainty is at what point you start the 1/8th turn. If it is only 1/8th then I may have a little too much preload in any case.

I felt for 0 lash which is when you can just feel the friction of the rods and then turn 1/8th right?

I think that I need to do a valve adjustment before doing anything. I will however order some new lifters just in case.

What I am worried about now is that I had the valves adjusted badly and it prevented the truck from running. Could I have damaged the lifters in the process of doing that?

Effectively they weren't primed properly and the engine was turning over powered by the starter - so there may have been no oil in there and they were too tight. Could that cause a collapse?

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll get to the bottom of this.

buy any lifters just in case? don't be stupid

 

[Quickstop [UK]]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

it makes sense. They're the only part that I could feasibly replace and I can't get them in the UK so if it turns out to be them then I need a spare set. Otherwise I am screwed and the car doesn't go anywhere.

What do you suggest? I can't work out that it is the lifters when I see you then order them and then fix it in April and then maybe something else and then work that out in August and then fix it in December....

It will take me years to fix the things like that...

 

[gt71ss]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

check to see if the rocker arms are hitting the inside of the valve covers. i was using the plastic vortec ones on mine and they where just hitting. was also using the 1.6 crane golds GT

 

[bezerk]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

i have a spare set of lifters, you got my paypall addy, right? also buy a set of 1203 felpro's and maybe a upper intake gasket.

 

[Quickstop [UK]]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

875s?

 

[bezerk]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

yes

 

[Quickstop [UK]]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

next question - how much damage would the truck suffer if it were driven 500 miles or so with a bad lifter, assuming that is the case? Driven gently I mean..

 

[BoostedSUV]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

If the roller went bad on the lifter the cam is junk I don't care how light it was driven. If the lifter just wouldn't pump up I would check the push rod cup on rocker and push rod but otherwise it shouldn't do much if any damage.

 

[Quickstop [UK]]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

I am hoping it just didn't pump up - the scenario that it trashed the cam doesn't bear thinking about! I hadn't even considered that option!

I am planning on investigating it but if it means tearing the lower intake off then I may not have time to do it before I get the truck home.

 

[BoostedSUV]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

check to see if the rocker arms are hitting the inside of the valve covers. i was using the plastic vortec ones on mine and they where just hitting. was also using the 1.6 crane golds GT

This is also a good thought... I had this problem with my El Camino with center bolt vortec heads. The Roller rockers were hitting the oil baffles and the center post tubes. It was easy to tell, I just laid my hand on the valve cover and I could feel it.

I'm still thinking your issue is with rocker arm adjustment since you didn't soak the lifters or pump them up properly prior to adjusting. Its no big deal just have to set them again. I spin the push rod with my fingers and when I start feel resistance I turn them from an 1/-1/4 turn tighter. I have even set them with engine running (makes a big mess). Back them off until they make noise, slowly tighten until it goes away then turn 1/4 turn. This way you're sure the lifter is pumped up with oil pressure. Its not necessary but it is another messy technique.

 

[BoostedSUV]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

I am hoping it just didn't pump up - the scenario that it trashed the cam doesn't bear thinking about! I hadn't even considered that option!

I am planning on investigating it but if it means tearing the lower intake off then I may not have time to do it before I get the truck home.

I wouldn't really worry too much about that, that was a worse case senerio lol didn't mean to scare you. That's a common problem with big lift cams but not with our applications. I would bet you just need to re-adjust things and you'll be good to go. Shouldn't even have to take intake off unless you have a lfter that won't pump up.

 

[bezerk]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

I am hoping it just didn't pump up - the scenario that it trashed the cam doesn't bear thinking about! I hadn't even considered that option!

I am planning on investigating it but if it means tearing the lower intake off then I may not have time to do it before I get the truck home.

dude, it's not a bad lifter becauce yours sounds like a diesel, if it was 1 lifter going bad you would have a tick ............tick................tick.............tick, instead of the clikedyclickedyclickedy. it's not the sound of just 1. calm down, nothing bad. just sent me the money to fix it:rotf:

 

[Quickstop [UK]]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

maybe I have 6 lifters all collapsed then? dayum



How much to do the adjustments?

 

[bezerk]

Re: ticking - no knock, just annoying.

maybe I have 6 lifters all collapsed then? dayum



How much to do the adjustments?

****