Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

4C FED

4C FED

Absolutum Dominium
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

For the downpipe hitting the frame, I think there is a little slop in the holes in the exhaust housing.
You can gain a little extra clearance by loosening the 4 nuts that secure the exhaust housing to the manifold. Rotate the turbo so that you are trying to aim the inlet down & the downpipe up. Then tighten it back up.
This should lift the DP off of the frame a little bit.
 
dgoodhue

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

4C FED said:
For the downpipe hitting the frame, I think there is a little slop in the holes in the exhaust housing.
You can gain a little extra clearance by loosening the 4 nuts that secure the exhaust housing to the manifold. Rotate the turbo so that you are trying to aim the inlet down & the downpipe up. Then tighten it back up.
This should lift the DP off of the frame a little bit.
Click to expand...

I will try to see if I can gain anything by moving the Turbo/or First part of the DP. My Turbo is already really close to my A/C (1/16") so I don't have a lot of wiggle room. On my Down Pipe In addition to hitting the frame, the upper connection is binding. I probably need to move it over 3/4" to have everything line up perfectly.
 
dgoodhue

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

I got my truck sort of running, last night. I had to floor it to get it to start and then give it ¼ throttle just keep it idling at 800 rpm. I thought I was really careful about keeping the engine at TDC, but my instinct tells me the timing is way off. Small progress.
 
dgoodhue

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

I breifly spent a little time with my Syclone also night. I think I put the distributor in wrong. I think I aligned it to the other balancer notch. I was really carefully to keep at TDC but when I put in the Torque Converter I could have messed it up (I thought I had it right) I cranked the distributor clock wise and it will now start with out have to floor it. The engine ran and reved much better still not 100%, it still dies idling. I will double check the TDC, distributor and get some new plugs.
 
Don W.

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

I have the JSM down pipe. It was hitting the frame just slightly so, crude as it may seem, I pounded a slight dent into it. Works great. I can't imagine there is any reduction in flow. Even with solid mounds I wanted to not have any chance of things hitting and causing false knock.

It's out now so can post a pic if you'd like or, it will be back in soon and can post that pic. LMK
 
dgoodhue

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

Don W. said:
I have the JSM down pipe. It was hitting the frame just slightly so, crude as it may seem, I pounded a slight dent into it.

It's out now so can post a pic if you'd like or, it will be back in soon and can post that pic. LMK
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer. I already have a JSM downpipe to compare it to.
 
dgoodhue

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

I put the engine to TDC on #1 and sure enough the distributor wasn't lined up. It took all of 15 miniutes to fix but I can't get it started because the stupid alarm keep cutting power to the starter. It look like the alarm is coming out next. It's not working right anyways, the modes aren't working properly and sometimes the all lights stay on, I hate aftermarket alarms, they always fail...
 
dgoodhue

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

I got it running last night :rock: I gave the battery a good charge overnight and got my battery charger to work on 'start' mode (the switch wasn't working) The alarm was kicking in everytime the battery voltage dropped. I probably need a new battery.

My truck sputtered at first probably from fouled plugs, but once it ran for a couple minutes the idle smoothed right out and finally sounded like an engine firing on all cylinders. I know its a small thing but it sure felt good to have finally sound right again.
 
dgoodhue

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

Summary of the parts I used for a Vortec Longblock Conversion. I didn't didn't do a cheap conversion, my plan is to eventually replace the Junkyard motor with a built up Balance Shaft motor. I put in Bold what i think is require to do Vortec Longblock Conversion


  • Vortec Head Conversion
    Typically Intake Welded, Heads Redrilled, 5/16 -18 allen set screws with loctite (to plug original intake pattern), Vortec Intake Gasket.​

  • I used Ported Turbotime Vortec Heads, with the factory shaft mounted rockers and hardened pushrods.
  • New Headgasket
    I used Cometic MLS Headgaskets and ARP Headbolts, but you could use Factory Victor Reinz Heads Gaskets.​
  • 96 Up 4x4 Oil Pan
  • Oil pan gasket 10220906
  • -10AN Bung and 90 degree fitting for the turbo oil return
  • I used Turbotime braided Oil and Coolant lines.
  • I replaced the stock cam with a Turbotime 214 Custom Cam.
    To use a more agressive cam in Balance Shaft motor, you will need a different timing chain set. This is what I used
    [*]12458911 Chain Kit and new gears
    [*]89017257 Tensioner
    [*]89017259 Cover Kit.​
  • I had to replace the Oil Pan pickup because I didn't buy 4x4 motor. I had the pickup welded. I also replaced the oil pump with a Melling Select because 2003 had the new weaker casting. You shouldn't have this issue on 2002 and earlier Vortec motors.
  • I relocated my Knock sensor (I had done this previously) to my intake, but the Vortec motor that I bought didn't have the correct size for the factory Knock Sensor at the back of the intake. So you may need to deal with the Knock Sensor mounting.
  • Use the stock Flywheel and I elongated the holes on the Vortec mini starter, the stock starter could be used with elongated holes.
  • Stock water pump. Vortec Balancer, Stock Crank Pulley
  • I also used RPM transmission lines. My factory lines didn't work at all due the additional width of the Vortec 4x4 Oil Pan and I also have PEP skelton core support, which moved my radiator over 4". You might be able to bend the factory transmission lines with the radiator in the stock location.
  • I use code $59. I highly recommend some type of custom tune for this conversion. I would say this is almost a requirement.
 
S

sypwrdss

New member
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

I know its an older thread, but, what spark plugs did you use and what did you gap them at. The vortec head takes a different plug al together. The reach is different.
 
S

sypwrdss

New member
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

What is this thing like after completing. I have a 96 block and heads, along with a 2005 mercruiser intake.
 
IGottaSy

IGottaSy

Active member
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

dgoodhue said:
Summary of the parts I used for a Vortec Longblock Conversion. I didn't didn't do a cheap conversion, my plan is to eventually replace the Junkyard motor with a built up Balance Shaft motor. I put in Bold what i think is require to do Vortec Longblock Conversion


  • Vortec Head Conversion
    Typically Intake Welded, Heads Redrilled, 5/16 -18 allen set screws with loctite (to plug original intake pattern), Vortec Intake Gasket.​

  • I used Ported Turbotime Vortec Heads, with the factory shaft mounted rockers and hardened pushrods.
  • New Headgasket
    I used Cometic MLS Headgaskets and ARP Headbolts, but you could use Factory Victor Reinz Heads Gaskets.​
  • 96 Up 4x4 Oil Pan
  • Oil pan gasket 10220906
  • -10AN Bung and 90 degree fitting for the turbo oil return
  • I used Turbotime braided Oil and Coolant lines.
  • I replaced the stock cam with a Turbotime 214 Custom Cam.
    To use a more agressive cam in Balance Shaft motor, you will need a different timing chain set. This is what I used
    [*]12458911 Chain Kit and new gears
    [*]89017257 Tensioner
    [*]89017259 Cover Kit.​
  • I had to replace the Oil Pan pickup because I didn't buy 4x4 motor. I had the pickup welded. I also replaced the oil pump with a Melling Select because 2003 had the new weaker casting. You shouldn't have this issue on 2002 and earlier Vortec motors.
  • I relocated my Knock sensor (I had done this previously) to my intake, but the Vortec motor that I bought didn't have the correct size for the factory Knock Sensor at the back of the intake. So you may need to deal with the Knock Sensor mounting.
  • Use the stock Flywheel and I elongated the holes on the Vortec mini starter, the stock starter could be used with elongated holes.
  • Stock water pump. Vortec Balancer, Stock Crank Pulley
  • I also used RPM transmission lines. My factory lines didn't work at all due the additional width of the Vortec 4x4 Oil Pan and I also have PEP skelton core support, which moved my radiator over 4". You might be able to bend the factory transmission lines with the radiator in the stock location.
  • I use code $59. I highly recommend some type of custom tune for this conversion. I would say this is almost a requirement.
Click to expand...

:shocked!::shocked!:
Thanks for your time and effort!
:tup: your hard work paid off.
 
Don W.

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

One important item for any vortec conversion. Set the lower intake in position with gaskets and make sure you have a gap between the block and the manifold. The manual even specs this dimension. (I don't have though, books at the shop.) Anyway, for proper tightening of the manifold with no leaks a gap is required. I use black RTV to seal the gap and have had no leaks.

HTH
 
Peter

Peter

my Ty and me 25+ years
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

For what it is worth, the stock Vortec intake gaskets and the SyTy OEM gaskets probably won't work. It seems most people order the Felpro 1203 intake gaskets. They worked fine for me. Do a search and you'll find photos.
 
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