Typhoon #242 Refresh

coupecustom

Member
I wish I had started this thread when I first began refreshing my Ty almost a year ago, but better late than never. I just want to share what I've done to my Ty since owning it.

The goal of the refresh was to make this Typhoon a daily driver. When I bought the truck it had lots of performance bolt on goodies from the ATR catalog and was probably pretty nice when first installed, but the previous owners didn't seem to give much attention to detail, so it was in need of a good "pick me up". I did all of this in my driveway in the middle of the Florida summer through many a rain shower. Hence it took all summer and fall...off and on weekends.

The very first things that I did to the Ty was the typical coil, plugs, cap, and reset timing. This helped, but did not solve on large problem with the Ty....being it fell on its face, had cut out issues, ect. under 75% or more throttle. With those things at a loss to me, I ended up putting a Walbro fuel pump in, then changed the fuel filter and FPR. Still had the same issue after those things.

So, then began the one thing after another. Found that the ATR wastegate was leaking. Tried to reseal it, but that didn't work out too well. So I replaced it with a 38mm Tial unit w/ a 7lb spring. While I had the downpipe off I noticed the seat for the wastegate needed work so I took that off....which lead to me seeing that the battery wasn't mounted properly and the turbo drain line looked screwed up.

what I started with:
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Turbo drain line had a two different rubber hoses attached to metal tube in the middle and was heat wrapped, but the hose clamps were loose.
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The trans cooler lines were much in the same state so I decided I would replace both. Since the battery was not even in a tray and was just laying underneath the air filter, I moved it to the back and ran the new cable in the frame rail with corrugated tubing on the outside and tube holders so it would not be just laying on the frame bottom. Not a fun task, but worth it in the end.
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Much of this project was simply fixing whatever the previous owner had touched. Many of the bolts were over torqued and broken...so the previous owner left them. I got out two from the trans pan, one from the torque converter cover, and one somewhere else, can't remember. Lots of drilling and chasing of threads.

One item not hooked up on the truck was the AC. Since I live in FL that was a must have for a dd. I replaced every component for the AC system, compressor, condenser, evaporator, you name it. I even had to fiberglass part of the fan box that was broken.
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Also installed new trans cooler for the new lines to run to, in front of the AC condenser:
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Everything installed and back together:
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For electrical I replaced the electric fan setup I had cause it was jury rigged in there. I used the RPM dual fan and bracket I picked up from a member. After getting the truck started it seemed like there was definitely a loss in electrical power, so I installed a powermaster alternator for 140 amps. Seems to work in that it keeps the truck running and I haven't had to go outside to a dead battery, but still see low voltage issues. Not sure what to do about that.

On to the inside, there was a leak on the driver side floor that made me want to replace the carpet. I also needed to replace the heater core and redo a bunch of wiring, so out came the dash and the carpet.
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After addressing the heater core and fixing the leak from the kick panel, I wired in a wireless security system. Works awesome and love it. I also wired the doors for speakers. The panels were already cut up when I bought the truck, but I wanted to wire it into the factory wire looms so it looks nicer. I also wired up a new deck that has a back up camera and GPS and installed that along with changing out the lights to led on the inside. There antenna for the GPS and XM is installed on a panel I made that fits under the factory front speaker location. Its very hidden but still has line of sight and works like a champ.
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As of today I finally found the source of my falling flat issue. It was because there was a 2bar map sensor installed but I'm running an ultimate chip. Switched to a 3bar and all is good. I'll need to data log and decide on a method to control the boost so that it can be turned up past the waste gate spring...but I'm on the right track.

Next on the list is another set of new plugs and then new wires. I also will have to address a leak at the brass fitting to the oil pan for the turbo drain pipe. Its making a mess of my driveway...from searching I'll bet it is this "o ring" folks talk about.
 

Slyclone

Well-known member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Nice progress. The turbo oil leak is probably the tube mickey moused together or it was damaged and tube end was hit against fitting and caused a leak.

I dscovered mine that way.Leaking. Some one had hit the fitting against something metal and it pinched the tube causing a un-seen leak. Was done during the assembly process and some on elses neglect.
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

The turbo oil leak is probably the tube mickey moused together or it was damaged and tube end was hit against fitting and caused a leak.

I'm going to take the tube off at the next oil change and see if I can figure out what's up. The oil is definately present at the pan, where the brass fitting goes in. Its somewhat of a small leak. I can basically wipe it clean and then would wait a couple of hours to then see a small droplette of oil on the pan right below the fitting.
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

I sorta found my oil leak. It was a bit from the plug, I tightened it to torque spec when I changed the oil last time and that wasn't enough apparently. Then the next part of the leak I think is basically from the pan where the drain line goes in. I looked at the line that I made and no leaks there. I ended up turning/tightening the brass fitting a bit more, maybe a 16th of a turn if that, it was already pretty tight, but eh just for good measure I guess. Here's a pic of where I'm talking about.
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You can see I basically wiped the area clean to see if it leaks any more and I can find a dribble.
 

Typhoon#747

Donating Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Nice work! What are your plans to raise the boost pressure? Are you going to swap springs or install a boost controller on that Tial?
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Nice work! What are your plans to raise the boost pressure? Are you going to swap springs or install a boost controller on that Tial?

For simplicity sake I'd like to just swap springs, but a controller is what I'm planning since I think it will be more useful the longer I have the truck. As of right now I don't even have a boost gauge, so I'm looking at the AEM pod controller...seems like it'll do more than I need.
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Installed SM's ABS delete kit. Worked great, looks clean, and wow I did not know what I had. The Baer brakes are finally getting to work like they should. Stopping distance is probably half of what I had before....yeah, big improvement. Found the rear brakes were not even working. Once re-bleed rear brakes started working again. I think the ABS unit was clogged or something. The brake fluid was dark and I saw some floaties after removing the reservoir cover, so put all new fluid in. Took a while but well worth it.
 

atkonkler

Is this your bush?
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Did you do the transmission lines with the cooler? If so what was the easiest way to undo the trans. Lines at the transmission. ...any special tool recommendations? I have everything to do the upgrade just wondering what your thoughts were. ...lmk
 

coupecustom

Member
I did do the trans lines with the cooler. To remove from trans lines at the transmission I found it easiest to first remove the section of exhaust just under where the lines go in and then cut the old lines with tin snips to remove them. Now you'll have a bit more access with a wrench. Remove the fitting from the trans itself so that your new fitting screws directly into the aluminum trans case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Did some more updating this weekend. Finally got around to installing SM lower heat exchanger and EGR block off plate. Removing the air from the intercooler system proved to be a pain this time. Still not actually sure I got it all, but I can at least finally see the water moving with the cap removed.
I'm holding my Bosch pump in place with a zip tie for now. I'll need to visit a friend that works with aluminum to have a bracket made for the larger pump like I did with my other HE. I also hate the little metal bendy thing for the hose, but I was unable to find an elbow molded hose that was 3/4 on both ends at store this weekend. I'll have to order one some time down the road.
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atkonkler

Is this your bush?
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Did you do the transmission lines with the cooler? If so what was the easiest way to undo the trans. Lines at the transmission. ...any special tool recommendations? I have everything to do the upgrade just wondering what your thoughts were. ...lmk

I found out the best way to do the transmission lines is to wait for the transmission to fail....like me....then do the lines when the trans is out! Hehe
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Been doing some more work on the Ty over the weekends. Last weekend I was able to put some new UR6's in, gapped to .30, as well as some new Taylor wires that I was able to custom make the length myself by fastening the HEI boot on.
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Also got some wire boots to help with heat.
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This weekend I was able to wire in my MSD 6AL. It came with the truck but was disconnected when I bought it. Now I've found out why. After wiring it completely in I found that it doesn't work. I'll need to send it to MSD for repairs. Doesn't pass their white wire test. :tdown:

When I was trying to start up the truck after installing the MSD, the truck just cranked and cranked, then stopped cranking. No clicking, nothing, completely dead. So, I pulled the starter and found that the purple wire connector was completely broken off. You can just barely see the small part of the eyelet end still bolted down.
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Overall the engine compartment is much improved though
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I'm going to get a new starter, because I simply have a feeling this will all happen again simply because the solenoid sits so close to the header. I'm looking at the Hitachi that Hood sells since the starter can be indexed to have the solenoid on the bottom.

The other item weighing on my mind is I still do not have a boost gauge. The plan was to do an AEM boost controller, but I'm not sure its really what I want because I only plan to change the boost level very rarely. I'd like to know if I go with code59 and get a factory boost solenoid, can I just use code59 to set up my boost level? I seem to remember searching a long time ago and seeing that I could, but I don't remember how easy or difficult that would be based on the setup that I have an upgraded PTE turbo and external wastegate. As well as how difficult it would be to change the boost level, when I did desire?
 

ChiPhoon

Chicago Typhoon!
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

i envy your commitment, also working on it in your driveway in Florida SUN, nice to see your paying attention to detail as well.
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

I answered my own question on boost control. Ah, yeah, when in doubt refer to the sticky. http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36098

Sounds like I'll need to go for quite a few runs to dial it in, but I think I would have to do that for just about any controller. Now, I'll just run a boost gauge instead of going the stand alone route. When I get ready to tune, I'll buy an electronic solenoid to hook up to the factory connection.

Bought a starter from Hood. Just have to wait for that to get here so I can drive my truck again :(
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Spent the weekend on my back in the drive way :( I went to put the new starter in and found out I needed to lengthen the wires in order to have the solenoid re-clocked underneath as I wanted it. Luckily the power wire from the battery I had extra slack in. For the power wire from the alt. to the starter I had to run a new wire (4 gauge). The purple wire, I had to lengthen the wire with some more 12 gauge wire and put a new eyelet on it. I'll get a picture when I go to install the torque converter cover again. I need to get some new bolts for it.

The new starter needs a little more power to crank. I had to charge up the battery a bit to get it to go. My truck has a tendency to run a low charging voltage. I think mostly due to the under drive kit...even with the smaller alternator pulley. We'll see how long it stays charged up.
 

coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Got under the truck today and put the torque converter cover back on. Had to buy some new flange bolts for it.
Pic of the starter:
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And never really updated this thread with the torque converter that I had to put in earlier this year. I had a 911 that sprung a leak...very odd. This one is a PI Vigilante 3000 and I love it. It's really nice for daily driving actually.
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coupecustom

Member
Re: Typhoon #242 Refresh

Put all the parts together for my fog lamps. Now bolted to the truck and they perform great. Was sick of the empty holes.

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