Engine Questions Once Again >.>

Norm

Donating Member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

The serial # is located at the back of the block on the drivers side, located right above where the turbo oil line fitting would be. There is a flat machined surface on the engine. Look there.
Oct17195.jpg
 

bezerk

New member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

i really think that $1900 for an unknown used engine is quite expensive. if it has all the manifolds and turbo on it, it isn't that bad. but if it's just a bare engine i think that's quite some cash
 

Goshinki

New member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

Okay thanks for the tips I'll continue looking

Got to call them tomorrow to get the VIN


My mechanic should be able to tell me if its rebuild able tomorrow and he is also looking around maybe I can just swap my engine for a rebuilt one >.>


Checking the costs >.>
 

Norm

Donating Member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

Wish I had a ls-2 sitting in my garage right now. I'd sell you my engine out of my ty for less than what that guy(wreckers) is going to sell you his for.
 

blk00z28

Forced to by choice
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

Alright, I now see your engine problems/future build based off your turbo search thread. Let me help out a little.

Most seem to state the start price is $2500 and it goes up to anything from there...

Doesn't help me much >.> Why should I spend $3000 over $2500... I don't see any difference and no one will explain themselves....

A lot of people on this forum seem to be fine doing 1/4 at 12 seconds with stock engines...

It seems a stock engine will work fine for my needs

But would it be better just to have a new engine built for $2500 vs the $1900 for the used one

A lot of people just seem to try and upsell me to a $3500 engine.... When I don't even state the mods I am looking to get.

The reason the prices start at $2500 is due to the cost of the parts in the motor. I assume you got this price from a vendor, and not just a junk yard on a basic 4.3 motor? Because I dont think you can buy a short block from one of the vendors on here with a decent set of internals for under $3k...

If you want a stock truck motor, find someone who's selling a complete motor. If you want to get any performance out of your truck rebuild your current motor. That is unless the block is totally screwed up. Which you'll be able to find a good used block for about $250-$500.

Take it from me, sy#2716, and all the other guys in this thread and on this board at exactly how much a typ engine rebuild with good parts can cost you. Just the pistons, rings, rods, crank(if yours is good, it'll be almost the same polishing it or cutting it to buy a new one), bearings, gaskets, and very little head work to the stock heads will run you close to $2k right there. Dont believe me, here's a break down;

Pistons - $499
Rings - $200
Rods - $499
Crank - $250/500(work done to a stocker, or a new one from RPM)
Head work(seals, valves, springs, retainers.. - $250
Machine shop cost - $500
------------------------------
$2200 or $2400.

And thats just a basic rebuild with good parts. You get a new larger turbo, injectors to match, fuel pump, fpr, a tune(or you'll blow it up) and if your really wanting to go all out. A set of L35's or Vortec heads. You can get stockers unported for about $125. Then you'll have to get the lower intake welded to fit them, that'll run you about $250. Now your looking at a basic, simple rebuild of around $4500. Not to mention if your truck needs other work. Like.. a tranny. Or if the front or rear dif's need a rebuild. Or you have electrical issues, or the harness was hacked from the first owner.

So you see its not as simple as stating you want to know if a stock motor will be good for mid 12's. A well taken care of stock motor will hit 12's. Or even possibly 11's like a few have. But if your starting with used parts that you have no idea how the other owner treated them. You can take that $2400 amount, and double if not triple it when you end up breaking it. Because all the good parts you went cheap on and didn't feel like spending the money, just coust you double by not doing it right the first time.

You can think I'm an ass for stating this, thats fune. I'm just telling you like it is. Now you can possibly reclaim some money spend by selling your stock parts if they are in good condition. But you might only end up getting $500 of your money back. But thats better then nothing.

Good luck. And do some more research. You don't sound like you know to much about cars in general. But nows the time to learn before you're forced to by choice.
 

Big Mike

New member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

I'll step in here since I have been down this road a few times. If you don't think you need more than a stock motor then don't do it. I had 213,000 miles on my stock rods and never had any issues. I would replace your pistons, bore to .030 if possible, get a cheap set of hypers, and run it. Have your heads rebuilt, inspect your cam. First build I did was very stock, it lasted a long time and it probably still would be had the pick up tube not fallen off. I would HIGHLY recommend getting something like this for your motor no matter which way you went


This costs $40 and why not do it? Losing a good motor to a pick up tube is utterly humiliating:oops:
I dont know what turbo you run but as long as you do everything safe and with in the limits of your potential you should be fine with a stock motor. I would strongly suggest however that you do NOT purchase a used motor unless you get it for less than $400. Now if it comes with everything like the upper lower intakes, exhaust mans and x over, I'd consider that, but otherwise, build what you got. Its just not worth it to not know what hte hell you're getting in to.:2cents:

Watch out I have had that same type oil pump pick up with bracket break off on a small block chevy, I could not believe it so from then on they all get welded on also.
 

sy#2716

SyTy 4 Life
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

You need to listen to what tim and us have to say becasue if not you will be pulling the motor very soon after you put the used POS in.

Trust me I know I have been through i few builds and if you want to play you have to pay for it.

One of the famous saying that I was told when I first got into the syty world was
Pick 2 of these.
Fast,reliable, and cheap.

IMO just get a short block from one of the vendors use your stock heads and then have someone tune( not some random shop but someone here on the board that know how these motor react).

You really need to look into doing things yourself becasue with the labor you will save you can put it back into the motor/tranny what ever. Also you will gain the experience of doing it yourself and self pride of saying that you did it and did not have a shop build or so it for you.

Or your other option is to take it to one of the supporting vendors shops on the board here and let them do it and not have to worry about it.







Alright, I now see your engine problems/future build based off your turbo search thread. Let me help out a little.



The reason the prices start at $2500 is due to the cost of the parts in the motor. I assume you got this price from a vendor, and not just a junk yard on a basic 4.3 motor? Because I dont think you can buy a short block from one of the vendors on here with a decent set of internals for under $3k...

If you want a stock truck motor, find someone who's selling a complete motor. If you want to get any performance out of your truck rebuild your current motor. That is unless the block is totally screwed up. Which you'll be able to find a good used block for about $250-$500.

Take it from me, sy#2716, and all the other guys in this thread and on this board at exactly how much a typ engine rebuild with good parts can cost you. Just the pistons, rings, rods, crank(if yours is good, it'll be almost the same polishing it or cutting it to buy a new one), bearings, gaskets, and very little head work to the stock heads will run you close to $2k right there. Dont believe me, here's a break down;

Pistons - $499
Rings - $200
Rods - $499
Crank - $250/500(work done to a stocker, or a new one from RPM)
Head work(seals, valves, springs, retainers.. - $250
Machine shop cost - $500
------------------------------
$2200 or $2400.

And thats just a basic rebuild with good parts. You get a new larger turbo, injectors to match, fuel pump, fpr, a tune(or you'll blow it up) and if your really wanting to go all out. A set of L35's or Vortec heads. You can get stockers unported for about $125. Then you'll have to get the lower intake welded to fit them, that'll run you about $250. Now your looking at a basic, simple rebuild of around $4500. Not to mention if your truck needs other work. Like.. a tranny. Or if the front or rear dif's need a rebuild. Or you have electrical issues, or the harness was hacked from the first owner.

So you see its not as simple as stating you want to know if a stock motor will be good for mid 12's. A well taken care of stock motor will hit 12's. Or even possibly 11's like a few have. But if your starting with used parts that you have no idea how the other owner treated them. You can take that $2400 amount, and double if not triple it when you end up breaking it. Because all the good parts you went cheap on and didn't feel like spending the money, just coust you double by not doing it right the first time.

You can think I'm an ass for stating this, thats fune. I'm just telling you like it is. Now you can possibly reclaim some money spend by selling your stock parts if they are in good condition. But you might only end up getting $500 of your money back. But thats better then nothing.

Good luck. And do some more research. You don't sound like you know to much about cars in general. But nows the time to learn before you're forced to by choice.
 

Goshinki

New member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

Thanks for everyone's input...

My mechanic can have a casper engine built for about $2300


The labor jumps up to 1400ish though


So I am looking at $3700 for everything


But the motor comes with 3 year 100k warranty



He is double checking what parts are used when building this engine he will email me soon >.>
 

Goshinki

New member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

Anyone able to tell me what parts I should use assuming all I have left is a block?

Pistons
Rings
Rods
Crank
Head
ETC

Also can you tell me where to look for each item >.>


EDIT Looks like you answered my questions
 

bezerk

New member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

Thanks for everyone's input...

My mechanic can have a casper engine built for about $2300


The labor jumps up to 1400ish though


So I am looking at $3700 for everything


But the motor comes with 3 year 100k warranty


He is double checking what parts are used when building this engine he will email me soon >.>

sounds good if casper is also paying for the labor involved when the engine needs to be taken out for warrenty.
still i think you will be into this way to deep pretty soon. i predict a 4 sale sign within 12 months
 

Goshinki

New member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

Pays for labor and the parts

So i found my engine thanks i guess


Thanks for everything everybody =P
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

A warrenty doesn't mean squat if you continuously blow motors. I bet they will pay for one motor and after that they will deny your claim and you will be back where you started from.
 

sy#2716

SyTy 4 Life
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

Like ken says it i will break maybe when you first put it in or first in boost but will break for almost 4gs get a stocks rebuild from one of the vendors and be done with it.




hell you do not want to listen to what we have to say so I am not going to put anymore input in.
 

gkrcr882

SyTyless......for now!
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

With these trucks it's impossible to get a reliable, powerful engine for cheap. Good parts are hard to come by, and when it comes to any forced induction engine, never settle for anything but the best. You don't have to go overboard and get a cryo crank or some wild oddfire set up, but rods, pistons, bearings, and a well prepped block are essential. Personally, I'd rather trust a SyTy expert (Campbell, RPM, Blake, Waller, Rockford, etc) over some other company for the pure reason that they have expierence. Not saying other shops don't do good work, its just that a turbo 4.3L isn't as common as a 350 or 3.8L. Do what you want to do, its your project, but one word of warning that everyone seems to be giving: If you cant work on your own truck, it will cost you a lot of money, time, frustration, and heartache. Good luck.
 

Goshinki

New member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

I took everyone's advice

.030 TRW pistons
Eagle rods
stock heads
l-35s (still thinking about, reading etc >.>)


Mechanic will assemble still costing me a lot more then I want but its worth it I guess >.>


Planed to learn a lot about this truck so I can do these things myself but its winter and my new job starts Dec 1st so I have no time ='[


Thanks again everyone
 
Last edited:

bezerk

New member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

do you think that we are all unemployed? we all have jobs and do this stuff in a weekend. night. when a day off.
do it yourself and save the money for a transmission rebuild. hahahaahahahahahahahahhehehehehehehoohohohohoh
 

Norm

Donating Member
Re: Engine Questions Once Again >.>

There'a reason alot of guys on this site joke around about their trucks being on jackstands. They are like a really old violin or what ever you wnat to insert as old. Treat them wrong they will break in a second. Treat them properly they can last along time. You are going to have to learn about tuning and other maintenance things. Even if you buy a used engine, pay a mechanic to install it. It is still going to have to be set-up to run properly.
 
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