Motor rebuild for 92TY#73
- Thread starter TYTILIDIE
- Start date
Ry368
one mile = 5280 feet
TYTILIDIE
METH HEAD
Re: Motor rebuild for 92TY#73
:rotf: Nope, I guess he still had to to do freeze plugs and cam bearings. I'm supposed to call him this afternoon and see where he is at. Everything is paid for though, $1,900.00!! Not including what I bought the motor for. When I walked in the other day he was in the middle of balancing everything. So hopefully I'll get it back today but he said for sure by tomorrow and if I get it tomorrow I should have the short block built by Saturday.
:rotf: Nope, I guess he still had to to do freeze plugs and cam bearings. I'm supposed to call him this afternoon and see where he is at. Everything is paid for though, $1,900.00!! Not including what I bought the motor for. When I walked in the other day he was in the middle of balancing everything. So hopefully I'll get it back today but he said for sure by tomorrow and if I get it tomorrow I should have the short block built by Saturday.
Re: Motor rebuild for 92TY#73
i paid 2300 and that was with a block, but only a few other parts, and that was supposed to be a hook up, mind you thats nitrided crank, splayed 4bolt conv, and race port, ect,ect.........so your price does not sound bad. Ed Hale out of San Diego, pricey, slow and, hopefully my crap hols together:roll:
i paid 2300 and that was with a block, but only a few other parts, and that was supposed to be a hook up, mind you thats nitrided crank, splayed 4bolt conv, and race port, ect,ect.........so your price does not sound bad. Ed Hale out of San Diego, pricey, slow and, hopefully my crap hols together:roll:
STORM TROOPER
New member
TYTILIDIE
METH HEAD
Re: Motor rebuild for 92TY#73
I went to help my buddy get his boat out of the water since his slip ran out, that and he didn't want to leave it in there. So we get the boat out of the water on to the trailer and we go through inspection. Well, it turns out there are 3 species of something or other that are a big concern and they have to call the head biologist to come check it out. We waited for almost two hours for this prick to show up. I was going nuts. There was not ONE other person at the lake, tons of boats of course but you could hear a damn pin drop it was so quiet, kind of ruined my day to be honest. These guys were total goof offs too. Turned out we didn't have any zebra muscles on it so we were clear to go, took the head biologist a total of 3 minutes to figure it out.:roll:
I went to help my buddy get his boat out of the water since his slip ran out, that and he didn't want to leave it in there. So we get the boat out of the water on to the trailer and we go through inspection. Well, it turns out there are 3 species of something or other that are a big concern and they have to call the head biologist to come check it out. We waited for almost two hours for this prick to show up. I was going nuts. There was not ONE other person at the lake, tons of boats of course but you could hear a damn pin drop it was so quiet, kind of ruined my day to be honest. These guys were total goof offs too. Turned out we didn't have any zebra muscles on it so we were clear to go, took the head biologist a total of 3 minutes to figure it out.:roll:
TYTILIDIE
METH HEAD
Re: Motor rebuild for 92TY#73
OK, finally got the motor back form the machine shop. Made some progress on it but will post that up tomorrow. For now I will post pics of the parts I got back.
Here is the block all bored out to 40 over
Here is the bottom side, line bored with studs.
Intake modded for Vortecs
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/1406/1002544hz6.jpg
And the crank, offset ground and nitraded
JE pistons with Lunati rods
Exhaust manifolds and cross over after being baked, impressive to say the least
$225 balancer that I am sure I could gotten for $125 but still a nice piece
That's it until tomorrow. I plan on having the crank and rods and pistons installed by the end of the day tomorrow.
OK, finally got the motor back form the machine shop. Made some progress on it but will post that up tomorrow. For now I will post pics of the parts I got back.
Here is the block all bored out to 40 over
Here is the bottom side, line bored with studs.
Intake modded for Vortecs
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/1406/1002544hz6.jpg
And the crank, offset ground and nitraded
JE pistons with Lunati rods
Exhaust manifolds and cross over after being baked, impressive to say the least
$225 balancer that I am sure I could gotten for $125 but still a nice piece
That's it until tomorrow. I plan on having the crank and rods and pistons installed by the end of the day tomorrow.
TYTILIDIE
METH HEAD
Re: Motor rebuild for 92TY#73
More progress tonight. If I had everything I need here, which I usually do, I would have been done by now. This usually takes me a few hours. Now lets keep in mind that I am not a professional so there are going to be some who might have a different opinion on how I do things but this is what I know and have been doing it for years and has worked for me.
First I seat main bearings
Then lube with Clevitte assembly lube
Lay the crank in bed:lol:
Seat all the main cap bearings and lube.
I like to spread the lube around
Place caps on studs and hand tighten all of the nuts
Then I torque in three steps to 85ft. lbs.
Here are the rings laid out
I used a low end JE ring. Didn't see the need for the good stuff.
Oil rings installed
Second ring
Top ring
I make sure these are all staggered before I install them in to the bore.
I always like to squirt some oil in to the cylinders before I install the pistons.
Then I like to get in there and make sure they are lubed all the way around.
Like the mains, I seat the rod bearings and lube them
And the cap. You can see the fingers on the bearings, this tells you they go together.
Oh yeah, don't forget to compress the rings and install the pistons:lol:
At this point, you can torque your rod caps down once you have everything in. I have to wait since Lunati calls for doing this by checking end play. I am going to see if I can find a dial indicator that I can use for this tomorrow.
Next, I lube the camshaft
Slide it in....it can be a PITA with out an install tool. You garage guys like me can simply put one bolt down on the cam sprocket and it is much easier to install.
Install the plate and you are done here.
Well, that is all I can afford for now. I hope to have the entire bottom end done by the end of the week. Still need to order the timing chain/cover set, oil pump and pick up tube.
More progress tonight. If I had everything I need here, which I usually do, I would have been done by now. This usually takes me a few hours. Now lets keep in mind that I am not a professional so there are going to be some who might have a different opinion on how I do things but this is what I know and have been doing it for years and has worked for me.
First I seat main bearings
Then lube with Clevitte assembly lube
Lay the crank in bed:lol:
Seat all the main cap bearings and lube.
I like to spread the lube around
Place caps on studs and hand tighten all of the nuts
Then I torque in three steps to 85ft. lbs.
Here are the rings laid out
I used a low end JE ring. Didn't see the need for the good stuff.
Oil rings installed
Second ring
Top ring
I make sure these are all staggered before I install them in to the bore.
I always like to squirt some oil in to the cylinders before I install the pistons.
Then I like to get in there and make sure they are lubed all the way around.
Like the mains, I seat the rod bearings and lube them
And the cap. You can see the fingers on the bearings, this tells you they go together.
Oh yeah, don't forget to compress the rings and install the pistons:lol:
At this point, you can torque your rod caps down once you have everything in. I have to wait since Lunati calls for doing this by checking end play. I am going to see if I can find a dial indicator that I can use for this tomorrow.
Next, I lube the camshaft
Slide it in....it can be a PITA with out an install tool. You garage guys like me can simply put one bolt down on the cam sprocket and it is much easier to install.
Install the plate and you are done here.
Well, that is all I can afford for now. I hope to have the entire bottom end done by the end of the week. Still need to order the timing chain/cover set, oil pump and pick up tube.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
TYTILIDIE
METH HEAD
Re: Motor rebuild for 92TY#73
You know I told them 8.5:1 but I have to call them and see because I'm sure they are not going to be that. On the box, it says something about comp height? Not sure what that is but the heads ended up being 76cc and the "comp height" says 155. I am going to use a .40 head gasket. I'm not sure what it will be but I'm not too worried about it. I can say that the pistons end up about 1/16" from the deck.
You know I told them 8.5:1 but I have to call them and see because I'm sure they are not going to be that. On the box, it says something about comp height? Not sure what that is but the heads ended up being 76cc and the "comp height" says 155. I am going to use a .40 head gasket. I'm not sure what it will be but I'm not too worried about it. I can say that the pistons end up about 1/16" from the deck.
Ry368
one mile = 5280 feet
Re: Motor rebuild for 92TY#73
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html
Mike...here's a cool calculator for static compression ratios...plug your numbers in and check it out!
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html