Re: My budget LQ4/4L80E build!
Re: My budget LQ4/4L80E build!
Manual shift shaft is too long. It won't clear the prop shaft. See it stick WAY out of the trans? You need the sonnax short manual shaft. Probably would've been best to have installed that during the shift kit install. The pin that retains that shaft is protect by the separator plate so it doesn't fall out. Your going too fast and missing detail stuff. Once you get it in, you can either pull the valvebody(probably take you too long for the rate your working), you'll could also cut the corner off of the separator plate but with the triple plate design, that's gonna be tough.
Your also gonna need to trim the aluminum ears off of the trans so it clears the floor pans and your downpipe on the driver's side(if your going turbo).
Look at the back TOSS sensor. You have no reluctor wheel in there to get the output shaft speed to feed to the controller. You'll have to pull the signal off of the wiring of the transfer case. The reluctor wheel on the output shaft of the transfer case has 40 teeth on it. Same number of teeth that is on the reluctor ring in the transmission. Even though it's smaller in diameter, you'll get the same signal. Slow down a bit so it goes together easier.
You will also need to take a look at the rear lube hole on that trans. You've got a late model so the rear lube line is special and goes way up into the center support. Jeremy sent me a good email with the pic of what I'm talking about in it. You'll need the sonnax rear lube relocation kit or modify the stock rear lube fitting to mate to whatever kind of lines your running. If you just screw a fitting onto the side of the trans without the projection going into the center support, you'll get about 300 miles out of the trans and then physically melt the gear train.
I'm trying to think of as much stuff as I can. Your moving fast and that's commendable, but it doesn't mean anything if it won't go in or burns up.
I think Waller sells a steering shaft made for better clearance. Give him a PM and see if he still has them.
One last thing to think about. Your using the stock 65 pound torque converter on your budget build. The street converters weigh 28 to 35 pounds. Just something to think about. Think of your engine trying to spin your transfer case. That should be enough to put it into perspective. You know how you hear all over the internet that the 80e just robs tons of power? It's not the 80e. It's the stock torque converter.
If you go hydroboost, you won't have any clearance issues at the manifold and the brake booster.
Again, your doing an amazing job. If the rest of us could do the welding and stuff that you are doing, we'd all have our trucks torn apart....that may be a bad thing though....