Turbo 3800 blazer

BMFB

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Re: Turbo 3800 blazer

So, the headgaskets have been leaking for a couple months and I was ignoring it, as it wasn't really hurting performance or contaminating the oil. Instead it was leaking some coolant and a tad of compression out of the side of the block.

Last monday I tore it down, and had the heads re-machined. I also purchased new cometics to replace the old ones. over the weekend I put it back together.







after having the heads machined, block cleaned, new gaskets installed, dissassembled and coated with copper spary, and head studs torqued I put it together and filled it with coolant. Truck ran like a top, better than before (I fixed a few issues I didn't know I had). I noticed there was a small puddle of coolant off the back of the motor when I pulled out but kind of ignored it. After a drive I pulled in and saw the heads were leaking coolant from nearly everywhere. After some investigating I have come up with nothing and I am going to tear back into it this week. I have no idea what I did wrong, and this is the 4rth set of heads I have put together like this and my first issue. I am hoping it is something simple that I can slap myself on the forehead about rather than some crooked cut heads or something.
 

BMFB

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Re: Turbo 3800 blazer

thanks quickstop, I try to get things done so I dont fret over them for too long.

So that being said I tore back into it today. I took it from driving into the barn to this in about 2.5 hours.





So in looking at everything I can't see anything that went too wrong. I see no cracks, but I need to look at them more. The biggest thing I found was right before i tore it apart I decided to re-torque the heads just to see if they had lightened up at all. they clicked off right at 85. I thought about the last time I had the motor on the stand and how hard 85ft/lbs was to pull..and how this wasn't reminding me of that time...so i borrowed a friends torque wrench and found that 85 ft/lbs was a good 1/2 turn over where I was...and that I was sitting at around 70 ft/lbs... This is probably what my issue was....a worn out torque wrench. After running it and having all of the copper ooze out it needed to still be torn down and looked at. I should have it back together this week sometime.
 

BMFB

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Re: Turbo 3800 blazer

headgaskets round 2







Got it together saturday. Everything seems ok...I see I have some moisture coming out of the oil that im a bit concerened about even after doing a flush...but the oil is stil clean on the stick and pressure is good so im going to just keep my eye on it.
 
Re: Turbo 3800 blazer

Checking torque can be tricky. If the bolt was at 80 it might take more than 85 to get the bolt moving again because of friction. Thats why when retorqueing is done the fastener is normally backed off completely and its supposed to be a one shot pull to desired torque spec. If your initially torqueing to spec in three stages than its not an issue.

Good luck finding the issue.
 

BMFB

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Re: Turbo 3800 blazer

yea, but they started moving again at 65 so...whats that mean to you
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Turbo 3800 blazer

thanks quickstop, I try to get things done so I dont fret over them for too long.

I know how you feel.

I love this thread man - you do shit and update it. Great work.

I really hope the tq settings were your problem. How were the pistons looking when you tore it down? Is the tune good?
 

BMFB

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Re: Turbo 3800 blazer

Yea pistons looked good, no evidence of pinging or anything. No cracks, cylinder walls looked good and still had both sets of cross hatching (one from the factory and then one from when I dug into thwm with 80 grit just to try to rough them up). The 80 grit into the walls was kind of an experiment but all I can say is I dont have any blow-by.

Looking at the gaskets I could see where the coolant had started leaking. I really think that it was torque related. As stated somewhat unclearly in the past, before i took the apart I re-torqued that with my now junk wrench and they clicked off right at 85. I grabbed a calibrated wrench from work and put another 110 degrees on them before they hit 85. When I was putting them on them on the second tie I was using my calibrated wrech and did the first two stages (35/65) and for giggles I grabbed my junk wrench and tried to take them to 85, and it clicked off within 5 degrees of rotation. Using the calibrated wrench 85 didn't happen for another half a turn.

I've driven the truck maybe 100 miles since its been back together and all seems well. No leaks, and it feels good.

I do have a tuning issue right now. Its breaking up rich a bit...sometimes...in boost. It could be the humidity (its humid as all hell here right now) and the trucks never seen humidity so I dont know what to expect. I put all the injectors back in the same place they came from, so I dont think I could have changed much...I'm thinking about tightning the gap up a bit, from .027 to .022 or something and seeing if that improves...if that doesn't work I'll start pulling fuel.

Its cool to hear someone pays attenchin to this thread. I was wondering who the 20,000 people where who seem to look at it. I' thinking about taking this truck down to nats, if they'll let me.
 

BMFB

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Re: Turbo 3800 blazer

First update in a while.

last weekend was alot of fun, truck went 10.80. Its got a bit left in it on the line and down the track, but its still not perfect. I also did my first high speed autox and had a blast. I placed well against some very fast cars. I need to work on something for a sway bar thats beyond a stock replacment...I have some ideas and am trying to figure it out before nats.

At some point during race weekend my coolant issue returned. I went through and re-torqued the heads but havn't been able to really play with it to see if it improved anything...a few were loose so I am hopefull.

Another thing that happened in my brake pedal 'feel' got worse. I went through the brakes thinking to just bleed them yesterday and found that the axle seal on the pass. side had just begun to fail, and started coating the brakes. I decided this wasn't helping so I replaced it.

IMG_20130728_170128_777_zpsb6b32e13.jpg


Replaced the seal, and brearing and shoes. I bled the crap out of the brakes and did anage to get some air bubbles out of the line but...its still shitty so I am going to just start throwing parts at it and plan on replacing the master cylinder tonight and try again.

I also installed a different wideband and it sees to be reading everything about 1 point richer...which falls in line with what I was suspecting.

Once it clears up a bit I need to do soe tuning with the nitrous/antilag and get that figured out...I've gotten it to work but its inconsistant. I believe I can improve it.
 

BMFB

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Re: Turbo 3800 blazer

Last night I replaced the master cylinder and my brakes immedietly felt 80% better. I also discovered that I installed my new wheel cylinder upside down like a fool. I will fix that tonight and re-bleed it. At the end of this I am hoping to have great brakes...which is something that the truck has never actually had.

I also purchased a set of speed bleeders, only because I often find myself alone when needing to bleed brakes. The idea of rambo-bleeding my brakes sounded fun.
 

BMFB

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Re: Turbo 3800 blazer

.

Worked on the launch today. Vid has a few different tries in it. Brakes were cold, and it pushed a bit...
 

BMFB

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Re: Turbo 3800 blazer

Lobe separation is 117 degrees


•Duration @ .050" is 230/224
•Lift is .544”/.536” on the cam.

Im suprised it idles as loopy as it does, RPM idle is set to 1100 to try to make it sound stupider and I run a whole bunch of timing to try an smooth it out (60* advanced). At 650-700rpm @ say 25* it sounds like a harley.

I liked this pic

IMG_20130803_155455_852_zpsb669d98d.jpg
 
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